Cutting vintage Vogue 1101

Vintage Vogue 1101 pattern envelope

This is the pattern I’m currently making, vintage Vogue 1101 from 1982. And here are the cutting layouts for wide (150cm/60”) fabric, which is what I’ve got.

Cutting layout from vintage Vogue 1101
Cutting layout from vintage Vogue 1101

My heart sank when I saw them. Single layer and lots of big pieces needing to be cut twice, not to mention the front, back, and belt being provided only as half pieces but not cut on the fold. And the top front and back pieces are asymmetric and cut once. The layout doesn’t even have the virtue of being very efficient on fabric.

In the end I made up my own layout which let me cut the biggest pieces on the fold and I added a seam to the belt so I could cut four shorter pieces rather than two very long ones.

I did the contrast sleeves by folding the fabric right sides together along the cross grain, cutting along the fold, and turning the top piece around so I had two full width layers with right sides together and the nap running the same way. Then the sleeves can be cut on a double layer.

It’s coming on nicely now but I doubt I’ll be making this one again any time soon.

11 thoughts on “Cutting vintage Vogue 1101

  1. It always annoys me when they require a single layer layout and large pieces this way. I end up tracing second pieces/halves on tissue paper. It’s a beautiful, timeless dress though! Excellent choice in style!

    1. I’d normally have traced because I have to make length adjustments but this one is super long to start with so I thought I’d save time by using the tissue. Not sure that worked out in the end 🙂

  2. I almost never follow the suggested layout on patterns… They seem to go out of their way to leave you with giant unusable scrap pieces. The second image, for the sleeves, is a little puzzling–if the fabric has a nap, wouldn’t you want to lay all the pieces with the cuffs pointing in the same direction?

    1. I think the grain’s the other way, running roughly parallel to the sleeve, as they’re dolman sleeves. I wonder if the image is showing up as rotated on some devices. I’ve certainly had that trouble with Pinterest and phone photos.

      I certainly find I can usually squeeze the smaller pieces into gaps between the big ones even if the patterns layout says not. But this one was pathological!

  3. I never use the recommended layout, I can’t afford to waste fabric! I’m looking forward to seeing this complete.

  4. Good luck with the fabric layout! I bet this will look fantastic, especially in black and blue. I can’t wait to see it – I think it’s going to look fabulous on you!

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