Time for another sewing plan. This one’s different from my previous efforts. Sewing my way through three wardrobe plans over the last couple of years has shown that what works best for me is to create entire outfits, rather than individual pieces that can theoretically be mixed and matched in lots of ways.
Lately I’ve been finding myself much less inspired by sewing pattern releases than I used to be. But I often browse Vogue Runway and there are two recent Saint Laurent ready to wear collections which I keep going back to: Spring 2022 and Spring 2023. I’m aiming to sew four outfits inspired by my favourite looks from those shows.
The first one is this stunning all-blue outfit, look 51 from Spring 2022. Here the main inspiration is the colour rather than the silhouette. You won’t catch me with bare ankles other than in the height of summer.
I already have a royal blue cropped jumper so I’m planning to make trousers to match, ideally a repeat of a pattern I’ve already made. I’m thinking high waisted, wide legged and floor length.
The Spring 2022 show had a number of surprisingly wearable jumpsuits. Look 39 is my favourite. It even has pockets. Those little pocket flaps at the waist are just decorative, but there are slanted hip pockets and the detail shots show back welt pockets too. The closure is interesting: the overlap of the fly extends across the centre front line and there’s a button closure in the waist seam. The sleeves are three-quarter length and the shoulders look very padded.
I have an old Burda magazine pattern with very similar lines that I am hoping to adapt to have the crossover fly. The Closet Core Blanca, which I’ve made several times now, will hopefully be a useful guide for getting the shape right on the bottom half because it’s similarly close fitting.
I love the shape of look 44 from Spring 2022: a minidress with a v neck, long sleeves worn pushed up, and very strong shoulders. The colour’s spectacular too, although I might go for purple rather than orange in my version. In the show this dress was worn with a brown layer peeking out underneath at the hem, but I’ve found the same dress on Matches Fasion’s online shop and there’s no sign of the extra layer there.
I have some 80s Vogue patterns with similar strong shoulders that could be adapted to become this style; Vogue 1308 which I used for my yellow 80s dress is one of the candidates. The original Saint Laurent garment is made from something called ‘wool grain de poudre’, which seems to be a type of suiting, but I see this working best for me made up in a heavy doubleknit and worn with thick tights and trainers or boots.
A dress with a hood is so dramatic and the Spring 2023 show had plenty. However the versions in the show are going to require some serious adaptation to work for everyday wear; they were somewhat sew through and often backless too. Look 8, below, is one of the tamer ones.
I’m intending to make a slim fitting knit dress, probably from Vogue 8866, an old tried and trusted pattern sadly now out of print, and add a separate hood piece borrowed from this 80s pattern in my stash, vintage Vogue 1439.
And because I want to be able to wear it out of the house it’s definitely being made out of ponte. I’m thinking navy blue or a dark grey.
I may not do all of these in a row – in fact I want to make up the 80s Dior pattern I’ve already cut out the fabric for before I can even start on these – but I’m looking forward to stretching my pattern adjusting skills on them over 2023.
Catherine Daze's Blog 
Yes! Yes! Yes! Every one is a stunner. The electric blue set is really a great look, but I love the denim jumpsuit too, the tuxedo-meets-jumpsuit is a look I’ve been ogling myself. I cannot wait to see these come to life. Such brilliant plans, Catherine. I’m excited.
The hooded dress and denim jumpsuit are my favourite. Great detail at the fly/waist too. All great looks that really suit your style.
Interesting plans and look forward to seeing the results. I love V1439. I remember when Vogue had the Individualist patterns but this designer is unfamiliar to me.
Found a post from Pattern Vault: https://blog.pattern-vault.com/2014/11/
Ooh thanks for the link! I think I found somewhere she only did a couple of patterns for Vogue – maybe the vintage pattern wiki? I’d not heard of her before finding the pattern.
When I did a brief image search
..only 2 found 2 Vogue patterns
Both quite similar with the detachable hood piece. I like the other one too!
I took a look at Etsy, searched for Vogue Individualist patterns and Vogue 1439 is for sale if anyone is needing it!
Great inspirational pieces!!!!! I love them all. Have you tried the Mitchel trousers from Closet Core yet? That’s one of my future projects.
Tempted but haven’t pulled the trigger yet. But can’t have too many trouser patterns!
The orange dress reminds me of Pattern Fantique’s Mersis dress! Look fwd to seeing what you make.
Yes I see what you mean, and those balloon sleeves are fab!
I think I know which Burda jumpsuit you mean–is it 2014-4-107? You could probably just use your favorite flat-front, slanted pockets straight trouser leg pattern on the bottom, and it would be a pretty close match. (Actually, looking closer at the pants on the YSL jumpsuit, the little pocket flaps at the waist remind me a lot of Burda 2020-3-119. The infinite world of jumpsuit pattern hacking!
I did think of 2014-4-107 – which has the advantage that I’ve made it before and so have the pattern ready traced – but I think 2009-4-130 is also very similar. If you look at the garment photo it’s made in gabardine and has little ease whereas the 2014 one is a bit looser and more drapey. Good spot on the 2020 jeans – they are amazingly close!
I think you’ve set yourself some lovely plans! The challenges don’t seem insurmountable, and you’ve got the skills to give the old patterns new life. 80s Dior dress? Yes please!!
I love those designs and the colour!
Fabulous! I can’t wait to see what you work on next – all of these looks like such fun design inspiraitons!
I agree with you. I buy very few patterns anymore , they are very boring. I love the runway also for inspiration and a lot of the designs can be recreated using our stash of patterns. Love your work.