I’m not sure how to describe these trousers. Cargo pants but make it fashion? I’ve certainly never worn anything quite like them before. They are from a vintage Vogue pattern, 1476 by Issey Miyake, dated about 1984. I originally bought the pattern for the coat, which I made earlier in the year, but the enormous pockets on the trousers appealed too. Sadly my copy was missing the page of the instructions which described how to construct the pockets, but a kind reader of the blog came to the rescue. Thanks again Charlotte.
The fabric is a washable stretch suiting from Stone Fabrics. It has a wonderful heavy drape to it. It holds a press – very necessary for making the pockets – but also tends to pick up a bit of shine if you’re sloppy with the iron. Ask me how I know.
I’m still not sure if I sewed the pleats the right way on the back. There was no arrow on the pattern piece and no picture of the back of the garment made up. The diagrams don’t include enough of the pattern piece edges to tell which way to fold. The technical drawing on the back of the packet is tiny and unhelpful too. The pleats I have ended up with mirror the ones on the front, but they seem very prominent. Maybe that’s the style? All those draglines come from the pleats and the tapering. Or maybe it was my grading; I had to grade this one up two sizes.
There’s another unusual aspect to these: the fly goes left over right rather than right over left as I’d expect for women’s trousers. I thought at first I’d sewed it backwards, but having checked the pattern and got a magnifying glass out to examine that microscopic technical drawing I am confident that they’re intended to be this way. Not that it matters, but I’m curious as to why.
The main feature beside the pockets is the crossover waistband, which has a large buttonhole on one side to allow the end of the underlap to come through to the front and be buckled in place to match the buckle on the overlap. It’s attractive but not totally practical as a closure. The waistband has to fit the body perfectly for it to sit right – those additional belt holes are strictly ornamental – and it’s a lot of faff to get on and off. I got to use my press machine to put the eyelets into the belt holes though, which is always fun.
On to the pockets. These are brilliant. I can fit more in them than in the handbag that I stopped carrying round about the start of covid. Whatever else you might say about 80s fashion, the pockets were superior.
Although these are a certain amount of faff to put on they are very comfortable to wear. The style is very different to what I’m used to though. It definitely exaggerates the waist to hip ratio, maybe a bit too much to be conventionally flattering. It might be better with a more boxy top, which happens to be what I’m making next.
Thanks to my husband for the photos.
33 thoughts on “Baggy trousers: Vintage Vogue 1476”
Looks like you did the pockets correctly. I’m still waffling on making the shirt. The coat overwhelmed me.
Yeah, I’m pretty tall and I still find the coat a bit excessive! It looks good in photos but I knock things over all the time when wearing it. I’ve seen some good versions of the shirt, it’s an interesting design.
I looked up when I hacked the pants into a skirt – the back pleats are folded the same way as the front – toward the side seam.
Thanks, good to know!
Back in the day I made several shirts. I love the design. It was easy to sew and always looked fabulous no matter what type of fabric I used.
Good to know. I’ve been thinking what kind of modern pants would work with shirt. Interesting that the illustration has the shirt tucked into the pants.
Thanks, I may well give the shirt a go too!
Those pockets are da bomb! So wait, there’s a zipper closure and then there’s a wrap sort of waistband? That does sound complicated to get in and out of. Could you fake the buckle closure, so it sits atop a snap closure instead of being a true functioning buckle? I did that on a skirt after seeing it on some RTW.
That’s right, it’s a whole lot of faff. Using a snap would certainly simplify it!
They look fabulous Catherine – those pockets really are brilliant!
I made that coat years ago but never wore it as I looked like a walking tent in it. I’d love to try making the trousers and your comments will spur me on. About the left/right zip opening I think it is a Japanese thing, they don’t use the male/female crossover rule as we do in the west. Love your blog.
That’s a good point, I know kimonos wrap left over right. I hope you make the trousers, they’re very wearable
What amazing trousers, Catherine! Those pockets really are a standout feature. You look great in them.
Fabulous as ever! Great job Cate! Your clothes look stunning on you!
The trousers look wonderful on you. I never thought to make them. I still have the pattern. And you are an inspiration as usual.
I think the pants look amazing on you! Aren’t the pockets fantastic? I think you will be happier with them if you wear them with the shirt included or a similar style top. He was a master of balance/form so trust him.
Heh now I will have to make the shirt too 🙂
These look amazing! They’re in my to someday grade pattern pile and I’m very excited after seeing your version.
I made those pants and the shirt as a teenager, no photos unfortunately. I love the look of those pants, maybe I’ll get around to sewing another pair one day (in a much larger size). I love them on you
Thanks! A lot of people speak highly of the shirt so I shall have to give it a go too
You look great in these and the pockets are awesome
They are a great pair of trousers! Very you, and I love the belt even though it sounds like extra hassle to wear!
Love these! And great pairing with the top. The hip/waist ratio is very flattering on you!
Thanks! Just not what I’m used to, but they’re growing on mw
I think the pockets look better than flattering, because they look intentional. That said I also think they’re flattering. 😀
Wow! I made the coat, which got me through New England winters intact. And I made a half dozen of that divine shirt. But the pants never occured to me. Probably put off by the waistline faff, combined with the Vogue fit. But those pockets.. They could probably be put on something that fits me better. Also, this is a Japanese pattern, left over right is the correct direction, the opposite is only for dead people
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