Burda 115 08/2021

I made this top specifically to go with the blue satin joggers that are just seen in the pictures. I’m still not sure the combination works, but I’ve found plenty of other things to wear the top with so it deserves a blog post of its own.

The pattern is Burda 115 08/2021, which is intended to be made up in jersey. However I was looking for something a bit warmer and figured it might work in boiled wool as it’s fairly boxy, and the draped neckline should give enough space to get it on without needing the fabric to stretch much. I used Empress Mills boiled wool in royal blue, which right now is still available here.

Burda 115 08/2021 line art, burdastyle.com

As you can see, I succeeded in getting it over my head. It’s a little bit a of squeeze and I have a small head for my size so I only just got away with using the boiled wool. The fabric makes the collar really stand up; it’s like wearing a thick woollen scarf. I don’t normally mind a high neckline but I’m always conscious of the collar on this top.

There are some oddities about this pattern. I make a lot of Burda magazine patterns and normally find them reliable and consistently sized. I didn’t bother checking this one carefully before cutting it out, but there’s something off with the sleeves. First they are unusually short – I had to take a tiny hem – and second the shoulder doesn’t sit nicely. It’s sort of visible in the back view below: the shoulders are quite pointy. I initially blamed it on the boiled wool, but I’ve previously used this boiled wool for another boxy cropped jumper and I don’t have the same problem with that one – it’s another Burda too.

It’s better with arms by sides. Part of the problem definitely comes from the collar construction, which leads to an extra layer of fabric at the left armscye, which is the more pointy of the two. So maybe it would be OK in jersey.

I shortened the body quite a bit because I wanted this to be cropped. I also took it in at the sides from the waist to the hips to get that square shape. Now I come to look at the line drawing again the original wasn’t at all the shape I wanted; I should have taken the collar and grafted it on to the pattern I used for my previous boiled wool jumper.

Anyway, wonky shoulders aside I have found this a surprisingly wearable top. It goes well with my collection of grey and silver bottoms and it’s super warm. The colour is cheerful too.

Thanks to my husband for the pictures.

20 thoughts on “Burda 115 08/2021

  1. Hi I come here each time you publish a new post but never comment . Just wanted to say hi and that your sewing is another level really (I mean in a good way, English is not my mother tongue). What you’ve done with that top using another fabric than the one recommended is just genius. Bye bye 💐

  2. You had me searching for the pattern, thanks for the link and the review. Your top looks great especially with your fabric choice in the blue boiled wool. I bet it will keep you toasty warm!

  3. This top makes a great pairing with those trousers, the contrasting textures is striking and the neck is a good detail. I see what you’re unhappy with but it does spoil the appearance. Another good one!

  4. Interesting about the sleeve fit. I wonder if Burda switched to different pattern drafters as part of their “restructuring”? The sleeve/shoulder seam looks a bit pointy in the back view photo of Burda’s version, too… https://www.burdastyle.com/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/ce2577252a9a02a83a7a26f75697304a/262/BUS-PAT-BURTE-1150821/1170x1470_BS_2021_08_115_back_1625585251162.jpg (I completely failed to notice that pattern because of their fabric choice, I think… the line drawing makes it more appealing than their version.) I do like your solid interpretation, though!

    1. Thanks! Yeah, it’s like Burda switched designers recently. It went from absolutely on fire to there being very little I want to make, plus all the repeats. They’ve been through lean periods before though so I live in hope it picks up

  5. It’s a great looking top. If you hadn’t pointed out (no pun intended) the shoulders, I would not have thought twice about it. The fabric is an amazing colour and looks wonderful on you and with the satin joggers.

    1. Thanks! Yes it’s a beautiful blue, the colours in that fabric range are really vibrant. I sent off for a few different samples of blue fabric and this was the only one that stood up to the satin.

  6. I love how this top turned out! it’s great how change in fabric made it much more cool than burda’s version! and the color is great too// makes me wanna sew one for myself right away (not sure I have the magazine, haven’t bought burda in ages as they’ve been pretty lousy lately)..

    1. Thanks! I agree with you about Burda – it’s suddenly gone downhill. I have a subscription so I’m still getting them and hoping it is temporary

  7. Great fabric choice to really show off the cool neck detail. And gorgeous colour too. I’m very disappointed in Burda too but, like you, live in hope that they’ll rediscover their design mojo

  8. I love the color and the collar is really interesting! It’s too bad about the sleeve length and shoulder draft. I’m wondering if it was intended to have some minimal sort of dropped shoulder effect if it was drafted for a stretchier fabric. Or maybe it’s just weird. I’ve run into a few Burda sleeve patterns that are just weird. Anyway, it looks great and it’s awesome that you can wear it with so many different trousers!

    1. Thanks! What baffles me about Burda sleeves is the sleeve cap ease. I find it really varies between patterns, much more than I’d expect based on the fabric recommendations.

  9. Your version is a great top,I love it!!! it must be so warm. Mine was made up in fleece and I love it too … it is bright red and goes with a ton of my makes. I really like the outcome, but had some deep thinking to do putting it together, and I keep adjusting the shoulders when wearing it. I lengthened the sleeves, as I always do being tall with long limbs 🙂

    1. Oh yes I can see this would work very well in fleece! Interesting that you find the shoulders a bit awkward too; I would have expected fleece to be more forgiving

  10. I made this in organic cotton jersey with a bit of body, I’d hate to have made it in anything either more or less stretchy! The neck looks fab until you need to iron it, and that bulk in the armhole seam would definitely be a pain in a thick fabric. I found the sleeve head height to be too tall, why Burda felt the need for a knit garment to have a sleeve head like that, who knows. It looks good on you though, the colour really suits. Perhaps try a ponte next time – if there is one…

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