Planning the next project: 80s jacket

I’ve had a piece of chartreuse green wool coating in my stash for years. I originally bought it to make a Burda coat and then rapidly changed my mind about the colour. The Burda got made up in a more neutral colour and the green coating sat waiting for the right pattern to come along.

Green coating from Stone Fabrics

Years and a house move later I still haven’t found anything to do with it. Occasionally I pull it out, look through my entire pattern stash, and then put it back again. There is only three metres of it which isn’t enough for the sort of big dramatic coat or cape I’m drawn to, and it’s too heavy for any other sort of clothing. I even considered selling it.

Lately I’ve been getting into vintage Vogue designs from the 1980s, especially those by Claude Montana. I’ve picked up a few patterns off eBay, including this one from 1986. It only needs three metres.

Vogue 1767 envelope

And I also have the Vogue pattern that the jacket pattern recommends to use for those enormous shoulder pads.

I haven’t been able to find an image of the original garment other than the one on the Vogue envelope, but here’s one with a very similar feel. This sort of coat often seems to come in very bright colours and be styled over black garments.

Bill King for American Vogue 1984, clothes by Claude Montana, periodicult.tumblr.com

And here are a couple of links to rather blurry YouTube videos of Montana shows with very similar coats in the most amazing colours.

Claude Montana 1985/1986

Claude Montana Fall 1986

The chartreuse green should fit right in amongst that lot. And even better, I have most of the other things I need for making the coat in my stash.

There are a few unknowns: the coat requires a bound buttonhole which is a new technique to me, and I still haven’t quite got my head around the construction of the concealed button band which closes it down the front. And the pattern calls for finishing all the internal seams with home made bias binding because the jacket is only half lined. No way I am doing that, so I need to line the whole thing which means working out how to make it go around the back vent.

I think this one will keep me busy for a while.

28 thoughts on “Planning the next project: 80s jacket”

  1. Bound seams would be quicker than lining, and using a strong contrast colour (maybe fuchsia pink?) it would add another occasional but stunning pop of colour worn over black. On the other hand, a lining does make it easier to slip a coat on and off.

  4. With the back vent, would a full lining be similar to what to do for a lined skirt with a kick pleat? I hope the instructions for the covered button placket make sense when you do step by step. It’s got to be better than what you get with Burda magazine patterns.

    1. I think so, but I need to check my sewing books to see if there’s any help there. I’ve seen a lined vent once before, ironically with Burda instructions, but it involved a lot of hand sewing and I think there must be a better way

  5. I love Stone Fabrics!!!! They are my local fabric store, always have the best selection of fabrics and Bess and Jane are fantastic

    1. They do have a fantastic range! I have some great things from them over the years. I’m too far away to visit but their website provides plenty of temptation

  7. Bound buttonholes are similar to, but easier, than bound pocket opening. Personally, I think they’re easier to get good results on than regular buttonhole.
    Having made lots of bias binding for finishing quilts, it’s easy if you have a rotary cutter and mat, and wide quilting ruler with 45° marked. Definitely easier to finish with binding than a lining. It will also sit differently.
    Living in a hot climate, lined jackets and coats are too warm for all but a few weeks a year, so unlined is my preference.

  8. I have this pattern Catherine ,so I’m intrigued to see your version before I make it. I would line it- binding seams is very time consuming and, as you say ,it will be more comfortable to wear. I never make bound buttonholes as I find them hard to get right so I use large sew on snap fasteners which look modern and are easily available on eBay. You can still add a feature button . Thanks for sourcing the videos- there is also an IG account @claudemontanaarchives which is worth following. Whatever happened to him,do you think?

  9. Gorgeous….I loved Claude Montana in the 80s and 90s …..the clean lines and bright colours seemed so refreshing after pussy bows and peplums

  10. I love both the fabric and your pattern! The majority of, my pattern stash is made up of these 80s/90s Vogue classics. I love them. I’m really looking forward to seeing what you do with this!

      1. They were indeed fabulous. Everything’s a lot more casual now – I do love the drama of the 80s and 90s fashion.

  12. Your new coat will be amazing! I adore that style ( having worn similar in the 80s). Definitely line the coat and a bright pop of colour would be so cool. Looking forward to seeing your photos when done.

  13. Exciting – loving the 80s vibe at the moment. Bound buttonholes have always appealed to me, but I’ve never got around to trying it. I think the appeal lies in the fact that you do them close to the start of the process, so you’re not so invested in the project at that point as regular buttonholes, making them a whole lot less scary. I bookmarked this Colette tutorial a long time ago if it’s any help – they’re kind of like mini welt pockets, I guess? https://www.sewalongs.com/anise/anise-tutorial-bound-buttonholes/ Looking forward to seeing this one develop.

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