The end at last: Burda 119 10/2012

This is the very last item in my current wardrobe sewing plan, and now I think I’m done with sewing with a plan for a while. It’s Burda 119 10/2012, a close fitting v necked long sleeved top. I chose it because I thought having a layer to go under the summery v necked short sleeved dress might make it wearable into the autumn. I also thought the top might be wearable with jeans. In these photos I’m wearing it with my straight legged black denim trousers from the plan.

Here’s the line art. It’s a very low cut design which means the neckline doesn’t show when worn under the dress. Despite this it stays in place beautifully – no worries about bending forward. The fabric probably helps. It’s John Kaldor Isabella wool/elastane jersey in charcoal. Super stretchy and quite warm, highly recommended. I got mine from Sew Essential but I’ve seen other fabric shops stock it.

Burda 119 10/2012 line art,

I made a right mess of tracing and cutting this one. I somehow missed adding the placement marks for the front pieces and ended up guessing where to attach them, getting it completely wrong, and then having to rip out overlocked seams in black thread on black fabric. I also got immensely confused as to which side of the front wrap goes on top. The two fronts are not mirror images – the side that goes underneath isn’t full length. I cut out the larger, top, piece first, suddenly thought that I’d done it the wrong side up, hacked it down to be the under piece and then realised I had been right the first time. I didn’t want to waste fabric by cutting new front pieces so my shirt ended up with the right front on top although Burda’s has the opposite. What threw me is that women’s clothes normally close right over left.

There’s not a lot to see on the back view, but I do like Burda’s technique for the back neckline. It’s finished with a narrow stretch binding strip turned to the inside and top-stitched down, which is something I often see in ready to wear. I’m less keen on the hems. The hem allowance given for the sleeves is 6cm, which was impossible to sew with the machine – I couldn’t reach inside the very narrow sleeve far enough to sew close to the edge without the whole thing getting caught up around the presser foot. I ended up trimming the sleeve hem allowance back quite a bit to avoid hand hemming. I’m not sure what the function of such a deep hem was; I don’t feel like I’m missing anything.

While I doubt I’ll wear this on its own much – I don’t want to blind people with the glare from my pasty chest skin – I think it’ll be a useful under layer. But now I’m off to sew less practical and more fun things for a while. Thanks to my husband for taking the photos!

10 thoughts on “The end at last: Burda 119 10/2012

  1. Love this top on you!
    Seems like it will be a workhorse basic in your closet!

    Ripping out black serger seams on black fabric is the worst!
    For black fabric sewing – I have my serger threaded with black thread on the outside needle. The other 3 cones are threaded with dark gray, navy and dark blue threads.

    The outside needle thread is the only one that would possibly show at the seam, but with the different colors, I can tell what’s going on inside the garment.

    🙂 Chris

  2. Another great garment. I’d never thought about those wide and deep necked crossover tops being good as under layers. But of course they’d be perfect!

  3. LOVE this top so much I ran to see if I had that issue of Burda. (No such luck, but I found several possible patterns for boiled wool I just purchased, lol.)
    I really don’t think it matters which side is on top on a front wrap. I’ve seen McCalls 7969 wrapped in both directions, and I must admit to wrapping the V ‘any which way’ on my Vogue 9253 – making it dance party worthy.
    Kudos on finishing your sewing plan. I hope that you can relax and have fun sewing now!

  4. I have a very vague recollection of making this when it first came out, for a friend. I love your version in wool jersey though, that’s a good idea!

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