All the hardware: Closet Core Blanca flight suit

This is the Blanca flight suit from Closet Core Patterns. It wasn’t on my original wardrobe sewing plan, but it fits in well with the other pieces. And I wanted a project that would make use of one of my birthday presents: a hand press. This gadget makes installing press studs (or rivets, or grommets) absolutely painless. Each type of hardware needs a different set of dies which screw into the press, but once they’re on, installing hardware takes seconds and requires very little strength. No more loud hammering noises, and it sets the studs perfectly straight every time. The only problem is that it’s so simple it’s all too easy to get overconfident and install a press stud on the wrong side of the garment. Luckily there were no disasters on this project.

Blanca has press studs on the sleeves which can be used to turn the wide sleeve into a tapered one.

And tabs on the ankles which can be used to taper the leg. The pattern calls for buttonholes and buttons here but I wanted to keep things consistent, so more press studs.

It’s a very well thought out pattern with a lot of options. I went for all the bling with the zipped breast pockets and the buckle belt.

I struggled a bit with the zips on the pockets and my topstitching is distinctly wobbly. I probably would have done better with lighter weight zips. But these were a good match for the teeth on the centre front zip.

It took me a lot of searching to find the buckle. Once I figured out the right search term (surcingle, if like me you didn’t know) they’re plentiful on eBay. They seem to mainly be used for horse blankets of all things.

I was complaining about my inability to sew good belt loops the other week. These ones aren’t bad. I made them as flat as I could with the folding in three method, and kept the turn under short. I didn’t hammer them but pressed them as hard as I could before sewing them on. Still not perfect, but better than the last lot.

There’s just one thing I’d like to change about the pattern, but I’m not sure how. The underlap for the front zip has an overlocked edge that’s visible when the collar is open. That edge needs to be pretty flat so replacing it with another seam wouldn’t be great. Perhaps bias binding on the edge?

Modelled photos coming soon I hope.

14 thoughts on “All the hardware: Closet Core Blanca flight suit

  1. Looks great. Bias tape/Hong Kong binding would be the way to go to cover the raw edge. Lucky you to have the press. I’ve mangled a lot of press snaps when putting them on and then they eventually fall off because they are 100% securely on.

  2. That “surcingle” is excellent, thanks for the word of the day 🙂 I have a press very similar to that, and I love the thing to pieces. Mine was also a birthday present.

  3. That press looks handy. I’ve added a few press studs to makes but I really never feel confident about getting them in straight. I love the look of your Blanca flight suit and all its hardware. I like the ring-pull zip – where did you get that from?

      1. Thanks for the new word! And a handsome surcingle it is. The whole piece is handsome. I hope you’ll give us some shots of you actually wearing it.

  4. I think that suit is so you. I love the surcingle… what a great word. Can’t wait for photos. I have a small press stud for plastic studs but just recalled it now.. I haven’t had a go yet.

  5. I love it! Great work. I really love the thought behind Closet Core. One of my next projects includes snaps… which one did you get? I usually manage to mangle the last one I do…

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