I’m on the home stretch now. This is the penultimate garment in my vague wardrobe sewing plan, Burda 112 11/2015. It’s a close-fitting sweater with French darts and a fairly cropped length. Here’s the line art, strangely with one arm cut off.
This is the ‘extra pattern in pink’ for the 11/2015 issue of Burda. There are detailed illustrated instructions and the pattern pieces are supposed to be extra easy to trace: they’re shaded to make them easy to find and they don’t overlap. And it’s a simple pattern to start with: only five pieces. Should have been straightforward, right? Wrong. Perhaps I have developed the Burda version of Stockholm Syndrome, but I had more problems with the easy to trace pink pattern pieces than I do with the regular ones. Having the pieces not overlap meant I had two giant pattern sheets to iron and wrestle with instead of one, and somehow I managed to trace the wrong hemline on the front piece despite the shading. I didn’t discover that mistake until after I’d cut out the fabric, and had to hastily make a hem facing from the leftovers, or this would have been a very cropped sweater indeed. I normally take care to check patterns after I trace them but I must have skipped that step this time.
The pattern is designed for fulled loden fabric, which doesn’t fray at all. No seams to finish! Mine’s made up in a gorgeous wool/polyester blend sweater knit from Minerva Crafts. Now I look at the website again I think I used the official ‘wrong side’ of the fabric as my right side. It has a smooth side where you can see the knit stitches, and a brushed side which looks like fleece. I didn’t want a fluffy jumper so I used the smooth side.
Like fulled loden this fabric doesn’t fray, but I suspect it’s stretchier. It sewed up very nicely on my regular sewing machine with a 90 ballpoint needle and a slight zigzag stitch. I didn’t use the overlocker at all. I hemmed it and caught down the neck facing using the sewing machine stretch blind hem stitch; it’s such thick fabric it was very quick and easy to do.
Here’s the back view. That centre back seam provides a lot of the shaping.
I had a bit of trouble with the hem flaring out. Maybe I stretched it out when sewing on the facing or perhaps it was a side effect of whatever went wrong with my tracing, but I had to unpick and take the bottom in a lot at both the side and back seams. Otherwise the fit is great. This is my usual Burda size and the only pattern adjustment I made was adding my usual extra 5cm length. I did debate going down a size because of the extra stretch in the fabric, but I’m glad I didn’t.
I think I’m going to be wearing this a lot. Thanks to my husband for the pictures as usual.
15 thoughts on “Burda 112 11/2015 sweater”
Looks good. The release of Itch to Stitch funnel neck Gothenburg top this week got me searching through Google images for similar styles in my Burda stash, as I knew they had several, with less baggy necklines I preferred to the ITS version. Besides yours, I found 9/2010 #112 and 01/2019 #111. I think there was another one in 2020 but it was after my subscription ended so I didn’t save it. Yours is the one I preferred, and I have masses of $2/m of polar fleece to test it with.
I love this pattern – bought it from the website a couple of years ago and made in a wool ponte. I added short zips at end of sleeves to match a rtw Next jumper I have with the same general shape. It’s a great pattern I will use again when I find the right fabric. I did do one in quite a thick interlock, but it was too floppy. It needs something with a bit of structure
Such a great looking piece. The zipper with its bling is just right.
Looks like a versatile top. Love the statement zip on it too!
Very chic. This is a great pattern.
It’s the perfect understated garment that just works! Love the big zipper pull!
Zippers add so much to a simple style.
Looks good–such a nice fit!
zipper pull really makes it a stand out piece – (works so well with those trousers which also have just the right amount of detailing…. )
Looks fantastic on you!
It looks so cool! I love the zipper pull detail on the shoulder. The only word I can think of to describe it is nonchalant, but, like, in the best way possible. The style is awesome and it looks so great on you. I think it’s going to look so great as part of your wardrobe.
I love the shape of this sweater and the sip at the neck is a great touch.
This top looks great Catherine, and it is very you! Love those trousers too!
Very nice! I love this sweater and made it a second time when the first one got mutulated by the washing machine. The hem flared out both times, it is the design I guess not the stretching out
Thanks! Glad to know it wasn’t just me with the hem. I’m planning to make this again and I’ll take it in there
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