Here’s the latest item in my sewing with a vague plan project: a white blouse made from Burda 105 04/2018. I never used to wear shirts or blouses at all, and then I realised that a white shirt collar is surprisingly flattering. Something to do with reflecting light onto the face, maybe? Any shirt pattern will do, but this one has got some particularly nice details: the radiating darts on the front, the slanted waist seam, and the big sleeves.
I changed the front to have a hidden button placket because there’s enough going on there already with all the darts. I also did a wide shoulder adjustment after my disappointing experience with Vogue 9299, which has a similar shape, and added my usual extra 5cm of length to the bodice and sleeves. I didn’t try to move the bust darts down, but I’m thinking I probably should have – or maybe done a full bust adjustment? But there really ought to be enough room in my regular Burda size without that.
The fit still isn’t quite right, with a bit of pulling over the chest if I raise my arms. I think to some extent that can’t be avoided in a very fitted style like this, and it certainly sits OK when I have my arms by my side.
This pattern has a really high sleeve cap and a narrow upper arm. It also has an absolute ton of sleeve cap ease which I lazily didn’t remove, and then regretted when I had huge difficulty setting in the sleeves. As you can see, I did not succeed in getting nice smooth sleeve caps.
The hem was a pain in the neck too because it’s so curved. Pretty, but I burnt my fingers a few times turning it up! It’s not very even either; I should have gone for bias tape. In fact this whole project wasn’t my best ever sewing. The mess I made of the collar stand is fortunately invisible with the collar turned down.
I like the back pleat. It gives the back view a bit of interest, and the extra mobility is welcome. And this is a nice shot of the sleeves, which have come out surprisingly subdued given how much fabric there is in the lower half.
The fabric is 100% cotton poplin from Croft Mill. Being pure cotton I’m hoping it will wear well and not develop that yellow tinge that cotton blends often seem to. I interfaced the collar, cuffs, and front band with Vilene F220 and sewed it with a size 80 universal needle. Pictures courtesy of my very patient husband as usual.
Catherine Daze's Blog 
It is a very flattering shape for you, and you are right the sleeves are subdued! I like the darts and seamlines – makes it interesting. As for the fit? First, always harder to get right the more it has to match our frame (the more fitted). Second, I do think the drag lines are more about the pose. Hope those fingers heal soon!
Thanks!
Lovely blouse! The subtle line details (seams & darts) really shine in solid white. And those sleeves are delightfully ‘subdued’ even in poplin.
I agree with you about bias binding being easier for curved hems. Much less fiddly, especially if you enjoy making bias!
Thanks! I swear by those bias tape making gadgets. Definitely worth it.
For 5/8 inch hems I make a line of stitches and use that to fold and press it up and I discovered how much easier it is over the curves by stitching about 1/4 inch away from the hem and pulling the threads to ease it.
Oh that’s a good idea…I sewed a line at 5/8 but didn’t think to do one for the second fold. Thanks!
White shirts are the best. I remember how broken-hearted I was when I was young and realized that even after you stop growing, your white shirts don’t last forever because they go grey/yellow and are no longer presentable after a while. Being able to sew one is a huge step forward for me, I can recreate my favorite white shirts as often as I like!
Having done a bunch of different methods for curved hems, I am 100% for the bias tape method now. I got a decent result on a Merchant & Mills pattern that recommended a simple serge-and-turn hem, and that worked well, too. But on a shirt, I like the inside to be finished well, and bias is the best for that.
Isn’t it weird how unpredictable Burda’s sleeve caps are?
Yes, I’ve had other Burda patterns where the sleeves set in easily. I wonder if this one was meant for a looser weave fabric, but I could swear the model looks like she’s wearing a shirting fabric.
What a cool shirt. A bad sewing day? Looks pretty good from here! I’m wondering if the pulling across the chest would be alleviated if the sleeves sat a bit higher on your shoulders? The photos look like the sleeve top is just a bit dropped below the top of your shoulder.
Thanks! Kind of like a square shoulder adjustment, I guess – worth a try for sure
The shirt looks so great! The details on the front and back are awesome, and I think the hidden button placket is a great addition to the way this pattern was originally drafted.
Thanks! One thing I like about a hidden placket is it makes choosing buttons a lot easier 🙂
Looks fab from here – think we tend to “over-see” imperfections when we make things ourselves. Out of interest does Burda mark where the bust point should be on the front of the blouse?
It looks very flattering on you. This is z great pattern, very “you”
Sorry can’t offer advice on any of your worries, because I think the shirt looks great on you. You are too hard on yourself !
I love this pattern and it looks great on you. As sewists we are very hard on ourselves about fit.
I know that helps us improve but overall the things we worry about not being perfect usually are not as important as we think.
Bias on curved hems is my favourite new thing.
Very nice, very you, congrats on interpreting this shirt. I wasn’t so convinced by all the dartwork, but on a crisp white shirt, it adds just that much more interest.
Gorgeous shirt! I think you did a splendid job – I always have to do a practice run and have learned not to use my special fabric. I suppose that is why sometimes sewing feels overwhelming – but the fit and finished product are so much better! I would say this is a keeper and you probably learned a lot! I do love the shape and the details – they do make it special.
I really like the darts on the front – a great unusual detail that you’ve really nailed here. (And from a purely selfish point of view, I have some of the same fabric in my stash so I’m pleased to see it makes a good shirt!)
From where I sit, the blouse is a winner. You did a beautiful job!
The details on this pattern are fabulous! I love your addition of the front placket.
That is a fantastic looking shirt. To avoid whites going yellow I can recommend the oldest trick in the book – bluing. You can get Reckitt’s bluing cubes at various places online (I do living history and there’s no way my body linens would otherwise stay white!)