When I last posted about these trousers I was struggling with the pockets. But as you can see I finished them and I’m very pleased with the results. These are the Merchant and Mills Strides. They don’t seem to be available as a standalone pattern but are part of the Merchant and Mills Workbook, a collection of six patterns making up a wardobe. The Strides are described as classic menswear style trousers. They’re straight legged, very high waisted, and have slant pockets and pleats on the front. Mine are made up in a mediumweight non-stretch grey denim. It’s heavier than any of the recommended fabrics for the pattern but it’s unusually soft and drapey for denim, which makes it work. I’d link to it, but it seems to have sold out.
I really like the fit on these but it’s only fair to say that other people have had mixed results. The sizing is a little hard to fathom as there is no size chart provided, only finished garment measurements. The size numbers look like they’re meant to match UK retail or Big Four pattern sizing, but in fact they aren’t equivalent. I’d say to go down at least one from your usual size. There’s no inside leg measurement given but after checking the pattern I lengthened the leg something like 8cm, which is more than I usually do.
What I ended up with is close fitting on the natural waist and roomy everywhere else. Very comfortable to wear. The pockets worked out ok after I recut the back piece longer to match the front one, although I’d prefer them to be a bit deeper overall. If I’d used the original pattern pieces with the shorter back piece they’d be far too shallow for a phone (at least for the size I made; I haven’t been back to check the others).
The pattern is described as inspired by classic menswear but it’s simplified from traditional men’s trousers, which makes it a much easier sew. There is no centre back seam on the waistband for adjusting the size and no back pockets of any sort. However there is a very nifty shaped fly guard with an internal button closure to keep the front lying really flat. I had a bit of difficulty with the button placement on that – the buttonhole seemed placed much lower on the pattern pieces than on the diagrams in the instructions – but that might have been my mistake in tracing and marking. I made it work but next time I’ll check the pattern pieces really do line up before making the buttonhole. Interestingly the photos in the book of the insides look more like how my fly guard ended up than the diagrams do.
Here’s the back view. I get those wrinkles under the backside on most trousers. I suppose I could take some length out of the back crotch curve to try to deal with it but it doesn’t really bother me.
I’ve been wearing these a lot since I finished them. They feel effortless to wear but I’d like to think they have a Katharine Hepburn vibe. And I love the proportions I get when tucking in a top to the high waistband. It’s as if they were drafted for me personally. I’ll definitely be making this pattern again.
The shirt is Style Arc’s Juliet – another one I have plans to sew again. Thanks to my husband for taking the photos.
22 thoughts on “Merchant and Mills Strides finished”
Looks good. Very classic style. Pity the workbook pattern posting doesn’t include style diagrams.
She doesn’t seem to be big on technical drawings, but I like that she shows her patterns on a few different models for each one.
Only one photo each on the sale page, and some of them aren’t very informative. Not so much for trousers, but I need drawings to see if they facilitate the multitude of adjustments I have to do for tops. Pretty much never buy patterns without drawings. Generally more informative than photos. Designers rarely include photos of models my shape: short, squat and busty – pretty much the opposite of you 🤣
Ah right, I’m going by the more recent patterns on the website! I agree that technical drawings give a better idea of a garment. I always find myself browsing Burda by the pages of diagrams rather than the model pics. Not having the fabric and the model to distract makes it much easier to see a pattern’s potential.
Great trousers – but wouldn’t it be nice for the centre back men’s style adjustment to be available. As someone whos waist and hip difference is very small I’m not sure this would work for me but they look fabulous on you. I’m glad that you persisted with the pattern, and I agree that you will be likely to use it again.
That did seem like an odd omission as it’s not a hard thing to sew. I understand skipping things like back welt pockets. Although I’m kind of tempted to add those if I made these again.
VERY Katherine Hepburn. Would never in a million years work for me, but oh boy missus, you know your style. Fab.
Aww thanks! By the way I’ve still got that chiffon if you want it – drop me an email with where to post it
Quite lovely! A good pair of comfy, yet stylish, trousers is a win and a must. I just finished a linen pair last night, but they are best ‘modeled’ than worn. (Posting soon).
Thanks! I’ve been wearing them a lot despite the slightly impractical colour, which is always a good sign
Those trousers look great on you, I think I will have to investigate further.
Thanks! Hope yours work out well too
They look great! The style gives off a really cool relaxed vibe that looks really awesome.
Thanks! I love that they are so easy to wear
Great Strides! I’m glad you got those pockets sorted out, after all, what is the point of pockets unless they are truly functional. I’m interested in the comments about the fly guard. I seem to get a few problems with trousers not lying flat at the front (I think this is mostly due to my shape). I wonder whether this shaped fly guard would help?
Thanks! It certainly seems to work for me; I usually get a weird wrinkle at the top of the fly on trousers and these haven’t got it at all. I’ve seen the shaped fly guard used on a Burda culottes pattern too. Doctor T has a photo of her version at https://doctortdesigns.com/2017/03/16/pattern-review-bs-02-2017-104c-wardrobe-sudoku-item-7/
great trousers – adore that shirt – they make a great combo. Glad I was not the only person perplexed by a merchant mills pattern. I have their Landgate Jacket pattern and I am still unsure what size it should be cut to fit!
Thanks! It does seem odd not to have a size chart
What a lovely pair of trousers – and in denim, no less. I see you are wearing the lavender shirt from your previous post. They go so well together!
Thanks! Yes, the shirt has turned out to be a success and I reach for it a lot.
Comments are closed.