I have finished making the jacket from Vogue 1466, an out of print Donna Karan design. I’ve been working on this since the start of lockdown; it’s been a slog. It was actually done a week or two back, when the UK was going through an incredible heatwave. Not the best time to be finishing a heavy boiled wool jacket. I was so fed up of it after trying it on multiple times in the blazing heat that after the last snap was sewn I left it sitting on the dressform and didn’t even take photographs. The weather has cooled down since then. In fact the last few days have been rainy so I still haven’t got any modelled photographs but I did try it on and take some detail shots.
Here’s the technical drawing. The unusual thing about this design is the high collar with the tab. The tab is a separate piece held on by snaps.
Closeup of the collar. I was concerned this might not be comfortable to wear in practice but so far it has been all right. I originally chose this pattern because I’m often in need of warm layers to wear indoors and I fancied something a bit smarter than a sweater. I don’t feel comfortable in most cardigans – don’t ask me why – and definitely not in traditional tailored jackets. This one is unlined and made in a stretchy boiled wool, which makes it a lot easier to wear.
The insides of this are all finished with bias binding on the seams. It took forever, and I can’t say it’s the most even binding the world has ever seen. I almost wished for lining, but the wool is so thick and warm that adding another layer would have made this like a winter coat.
The shoulder pads are just visible here. They’re the largest ones I had in stash – this jacket really needs them.
After all the shenanigans involved in finishing the welt pockets with French seams, they end up barely visible. Nice and roomy though.
I’m looking forward to wearing this now. Hopefully I’ll get some pictures of it on a body soon.
Catherine Daze's Blog 
The dart in the lapel is interesting (i know what it’s referring to, but I don’t know how much actual shaping it’s doing, it didn’t need to be there and I love that it’s there). As for your binding, this is why unlined jackets are so cool. It’s like the arches inside of a gothic cathedral; it’s the bones and they are worth showing. Thank you for sharing this, this is a very handsome make, and a great kick in the rear to get going.
I think the dart is providing a little bit of necessary shaping because the front does sit very nicely. Donna Karan designs are always interesting!
Looks great. I don’t think the welts disappear, they look good. I have some of this boiled wool in a mulberry colour and made a little jacket a few years ago and it’s lovely to wear to be smart and comfy. I do love that interesting neckline and I bet that keeps the draught off your neck.
Love this jacket! Your style never fails! Thanks for posting
I love your choices. Your style is very consistent and unique, quite enviable! Thanks for sharing your vision.
My sister, who was.married to a Bavarian for a while, got me into boiled wool by pointing out that it looks more formal but it’s as comfortable as a Secret Sweater. And that you don’t have to look like a nazi if you make something normal with it. I like to use it for nice sweatshirt patterns 😉.
But I wonder about all this work at binding the seams. For one, the main point of “boiling” is that it’ll never fray. And the seams show less if you leave them raw. They press flat very.nicely and stay that way, in fact with use they can full a bit to the outside and almost disappear. I usually skip facings entirely and just serge the seams.
Maybe you could make it a bit easier on yourself if you thought about boiled wool items in terms of sweater construction rather than pure jacket? That would help you face the next one without a pandemic’s worth of time. And this one is so good-looking, in its secret sweater way, that you’re bound to want more eventually 😁
You’re right – it really doesn’t need the seam finish. I thought it might look odd with nothing at all there but the binding was way too much work. Live and learn!
Wow, that’s a lot of work binding the seams. DK must like neckline darts. It’s an interesting look. I made one of her dresses years ago – the princess seam ends at the neck instead of the shoulder or armhole. Rarely seen in designs. Read something in a pattern drafting book about neckline princess seams and what figure it is particularly flattering to.
I have never sewn with boiled wool – thought it didn’t need seam finish?
It doesn’t need finishing, but I thought it might look odd in an unlined jacket with no finish at all. Donna Karan’s drafting is always so interesting. Sad that the company ended their relationship with Vogue a few years ago.
Interesting design, and that is going to be beautifully warm to wear. Enjoy it (and its cooking down now so it won’t be long until it’s needed 🙄)
Great looking jacket. The first time i made an unlined double wool jacket was because i wanted to avoid all the interfacing and tailoring needed for plain wool. But then i too discovered how much more comfortable it was and by now I’ve made a couple more. i also wear them instead of sweaters around the house. I’m sure you’ll enjoy wearing yours. Share some pics of you wearing it when you can.
This design looks super cool! Seam binding looks like a lot of work, but it’s the sort of detail I feel like you hate while you are doing it (so tedious!) but appreciate after the fact (yay pretty!). I’ve never had an unlined wool garment, but this makes me really interested in looking for some boiled wool, especially since I’m living inside under AC conditions 24/7 nowadays…