I’m making a jacket in a thick black boiled wool. It’s special fabric and quite an involved pattern so for once I’m doing a toile to check the fit before I cut into the good stuff. Before we get into the photos of me pinned into unflattering unbleached calico with wild hair and not a smidgeon of makeup, here’s the technical drawing and model photo so you can see what I’m aiming for. It’s Vogue 1466 which is an out of print Donna Karan design, so no link I’m afraid.
I normally start one or two sizes down from my measurements in Vogue because of the large amount of ease they include, and add 5cm length between bust and waist and also 5cm to the sleeves. With this one the finished pattern measurements showed there is next to no ease at the hip so I used my true size there. Here’s the front view.
I haven’t got any shoulder pads to put in, although the pattern does need them, so I think that explains the diagonal wrinkles from shoulder to armscye seam.
There is a lot of ease in the sleeve caps and I didn’t do a great job setting them, so there are a few little tucks. In my defence, setting the sleeves in boiled wool will be a lot easier than in calico. Despite the bad sewing and the unforgiving fabric the arm mobility in this is impressively good. I can reach right over my head without problems.
I think I need a little bit more bust room, despite the printed finished garment measurements showing a large amount of ease there.
I haven’t got a good photo of the back. All the ones where I was standing straight came out blurred! Anyway you’ll have to take it from me that the back is OK. What this does show is that there is a lot of room in the waist, but I think that’s intentional.
I haven’t got an unblurry shot of the side at all, but this one is the least bad. Again looks like I need a full bust adjustment and shoulder pads.
This one shows the collar tab slightly better. Mine seems larger than the technical drawing but similar to the model photo. The collar is comfortable to wear, which is the main thing.
So, some small pattern tweaks and then on to figuring out how I’m going to manage those jetted pockets in ultra thick boiled wool.
30 thoughts on “Vogue 1466 toile”
A good start made with an interesting pattern. It will look great in the wool 😊
Just using boiled wool at the moment. I had to try my pockets and buttonholes a couple of times to get the right construction. But it works.
It’s such a great fabric!
Definitely put a shoulder pad in and take a look. May change the fit at the bust and armcyse too, but otherwise this one has great lines. The fashion fabric will have more give too.
My shoulder pads have arrived so that’s the next step for sure
Looks good! You could certainly make the shoulder pads and check all is fine before you cut, although I agree with your diagnosis. Consider this also: https://fashion-incubator.com/sleeve_cap_ease_is_bogus/ it has saved me much grief over the years 😁. As to the pocket, I would consider making both welt and bag from different fabrics. I have had good luck with ultrasuede welts on boiled wool personally, although that might lead to some seam trimming to accompany.
Thanks! Definitely making the main pocket bag from black cotton. I hadn’t thought about doing the welts in something different, that’s a good idea. Will have to do some experiments.
It’s looking really good so far!
Great style for you. Is this meant to be worn over a top? If so I’d factor that in to your fitting.
I was thinking I’d probably wear it over a thickish long sleeved t shirt. This is partly why I want more room in the bust. It’s sort of ok at the moment but there’s no space for anything extra.
I can’t wait to follow your progress. You could also use a velvet for the welts or perhaps a plain black tweed.
Velvet sounds nice! I’ll have to see what I’ve got around.
It will be a stunning jacket in the boiled wool. I think you’ve identified the right fit adjustments. Thanks for the line art. IS the neck shield attached to the right front centre front or a separate piece?
Thanks! It’s totally separate and attached with snaps on each side. I can see me losing it if I’m not careful, I might sew it on permanently one side.
I was trying to figure out from the line art and your toile if it was attached or not.
Maybe a short thread chain to keep it attached but free?
Nice! I’m with Christine, a slightly lighter weight fabric for the pocket welts? I love that collar detail. You fo have an eye for interesting line drawings. Those drab all-black packet photos hide so much
Heh my rule with Big Four is never judge a pattern until I’ve looked at the line drawing. They seem to have a knack for picking sample fabrics that hide all the detail. Burda doesn’t seem quite so bad for that; I wonder why?
Weird isn’t it? I preferred when the packets had illustrations, not photos. Vogue is particularly fond of black for garments with LOADS of detail. Weird
Oooh, this is going to be another nice one. That silhouette looks great on you. And thanks for your commentary on the fit. I am still not good enough at “reading the wrinkles” so it helps me to see what you look at.
Thanks! I’m no expert at reading wrinkles though. I rely on the saying that the wrinkle points to the seam with the problem, and that’s about my limit 🙂
The sleeve, as drafted, may have too much ease in the cap. This is a common problem in commercial patterns. You can remove and 1/4″ to 3/8″ from the top of the cap and taper that down to the where the notches are. The sleeve will set in much more easily.
Ooooh nice one, the style is right up your alley I think. Best of luck with it. Black leather might be nice for the welt???
Thanks! I’m going to have to delve into the stash and see what I can find
What about using leather for the pocket welts?
Good idea, thanks!
Yes shoulder pads will take away those creases . Looking good though . The shape suits you well
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