Spot the mistake

Progress on Burda 114 11/2019 continues, slowly. I have the body constructed now. But can you see the mistakes?

Here’s the line drawing for comparison.

I missed the vertical quilting line down the front completely. Oddly it doesn’t seem to be marked on the pattern, or maybe I missed it when I traced. It’s not shown on the diagram of the pattern pieces either, which does include the horizontal lines.

I also put the lowest horizontal line in the wrong place on the front pieces. I unpicked it but I couldn’t get the markings out of the fabric, so I ended up restitching the quilting along both the wrong and the right lines. As it’s the lowest line I think it looks like an accent rather than a mistake, but maybe I’m kidding myself.

The fabric is nice and shiny. Here it is with flash. Sparkly. I’m so glad I ended up with this fabric and not my first choice; this one can tolerate a lot of pressing which has been essential to tame the batting around all the seams.

Setting the sleeves in was a battle. Usually I just pin strategically and then sew without bothering to gather the sleeve heads or baste, but these involved several rounds of basting, ripping, and basting again to get them in smoothly. It was just like how I remember setting sleeves always went when I first started sewing. So maybe if I make a load more of these coats I’ll get the hang of it, heh.

Funnily enough the second one went in much more easily than the first. They look like they need shoulder pads here but I think they are better on a body than the dress form.

In other news I finally found a nice coat chain, after being disappointed with the Prym ones that are most readily available. If anyone else is looking, the Hemline brand ones look good but I eventually ended up with a no name one from eBay that was exactly what I wanted and cost about a pound.

Anyway I’m having a few days break from the coat while I recover from those sleeves. Maybe I’ll go back and add the missing front quilting next week.

49 thoughts on “Spot the mistake

  1. Hello Catherine, I haven’t commented before, but always look at your sewing with interest as it’s out of the ordinary and suits you so well. Thanks for showing it to us. Re the coat, I like the bottom extra line of sewing. It definitely looks like it’s intentional. I also prefer it without the vertical line. So a win in both cases as far as I’m concerned.

  2. The coat looks good and I can imagine your struggles with the thicknesses. I think you can get away with the extra line of stitching as an accent – have you thought about doing one next to the bottom row on the sleeves, it might make it look more like a design element? Keep up the good work, I love your problem busting attitude!

  3. I love the double line at the base, great error! and think the vertical line might actually be distracting. What a beautiful coat.

  4. Having made a bunch of quilts, the quilting lines are not just decorative, but stabilise the wadding layer, and help stop it shifting, shredding and bunching with wear and washing. The wide spacing of these lines on the pattern is pretty minimalist in terms of this functional purpose as it is. If it was me I’d be adding more lines, not less, if you can now it is sewn together. I’ve sewn quilting lines on partially constructed garments. If you can’t, be very careful cleaning it.

    1. That’s a good point. I am pretty much planning to only spot clean the coat because it would never fit in a domestic washing machine, but there is always dry cleaning.

  5. Wow! Looks great. I don’t think the front line of quilting is necessary from a style perspective.

  6. I second Ruth’s suggestion re the second row of stitching on the sleeves. Repeating the element will make it look to be part of the design plan.

  7. I take my previous comment back. I’ve just looked on the Russian site and it looks like there is a sewing line there, but it also looks like there is a zip and I wonder if it is the line for stitching in the zip. The snaps seem to be for the overlap. Hard to see.

    1. I think you might be right. I’ve had a look too and it’s very hard to see though. I will have to get the paper pattern sheets out and check!

  8. Oh my previous comment didn’t stick?? I thought it was not a sewing line, but see above. I also said I would put a 2nd stitching line on the bottom of the sleeves too, to tie it all in together.

  9. It looks good. I can imagine what a struggle it is to put in the sleeve with the batting layer. Consider the lower extra stitching line a design feature or add more rows at equal distance below to really make it a feature if you can’t see it like this one extra row.

  10. When you first asked “spot the mistake?” My thought was that surely it wasn’t the double row of quilting that you were referring to as it’s such a great feature!

  11. Thanks for the update on your coat. I think the second row of stitching looks good. But I am most impressed with how well the stitching on the coat and the sleeves lines up. Because of that perfect alignment, I don’t think you need sew a second line on the sleeves.

    1. Thanks! Yes, that’s a point – it might look a bit strange if they don’t match. I think I’ll try editing the photo to see what it might look like.

  12. I didn’t notice that the vertical line was missing but I did spot the extra lower line – I like the suggestion of adding it to the end of the sleeve. I really like the look of this coat!

  13. Wow, this looks great! That quilting is not easy to do, and yours looks perfect. I like the double line! Can’t wait to see the finished product.

  14. I didn’t pick up the missing vertical quilting, so you could easily leave it off. I did however pick up the double stitching on lower part. Could you do the same on the sleeve lower line so it looks more deliberate?

  15. I second the person who pointed out the other row of stitching helps keep batting in place. When my daughter was tiny she was given a snowsuit, it had inadequate stitching, and the batting shifted badly as it aged.

  16. …do the vertical line double spaced like the hem one?…

    Looking good missus- I can imagine the air was blue while you faffed with all those sleeve layers though!

  17. I was just going to suggest a double row of stitching elsewhere, perhaps the bottom of the sleeve, and see that others beat me to it. I think your coat is looking great.

  18. No mistakes – all designer details.
    Looking good so far but I don’t envy you wrestling with all of that bulk under the machine!

  19. The coat is looking good. As others pointed out, the quilting is not just a design feature, it’s also to keep the batting from shifting and pulling apart. Not only during laundering, but in this case, I’d wonder about what happens when you twist, turn and shift about getting in and out of a car, for example. Hopefully you still have the batting packaging or instructions – that should tell you the *maximum* quilting distance. I’ve seen distances of 2 to 10 inches, depending on batting type and construction. It never hurts to quilt closer, up to a point. I’ve seen some quilts stiff as a board they have so much quilting done.

  20. I know nothing about quilting, so cannot advise about adding the vertical lines of stitching, or not. That said, this is going to be an amazing coat when it is complete! So exciting a project!

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