There are so many bits and pieces required for my Burda 114 11/2019 coat. Shell fabric, lining, and a very thick batting. There are only nine pattern pieces, which isn’t many for a coat, but it’s taken me a few days to get it all cut out.
The batting ends up quilted to the outer pieces of shell fabric. I’m slightly dubious about Burda’s method for this. They say to hand baste the two layers together and then sew along the quilting lines with the machine. I’m using the specific batting recommended in the pattern (Vilene 295 high loft) and it’s extremely soft and fluffy. If I stitch with it against the feed dogs of the machine I foresee it being chewed up and not feeding or even jamming my machine. But I don’t want to sew with the shell fabric against the feed dogs because they’ll mark the fabric surface, and the bobbin side stitching is never as nice looking as the needle side.
My current idea is to take my toile apart and put the calico pattern pieces under the batting so it’s sandwiched between the calico and the shell fabric. Then baste all three layers together and sew with the calico side down so the feed dogs have something to grip onto that won’t disintegrate. I’m going to do a few tests of that before getting started on the real deal.
I’ve got some good notions for this coat. It needs a two way zip and also some snaps. I was surprised to find that two way zips with silver coloured metal teeth are less available than ones with gold coloured teeth. This one fits the bill though and I like the puller shape. The snaps are a gunmetal colour which looks good against my fabric so I don’t have to cover them.
What I haven’t found is a coat chain I like. I have a Prym one left over from a two-pack but it ends in tiny metal loops that need to be hand sewn to the back neck facing, which I found quite difficult to do on the coat I used the first chain for. And the chain itself has a regrettable tendency to catch on whatever jumper I’m wearing. Maybe I’ll just make a fabric loop. Or if anyone knows a supplier of nicer coat chains I’m all ears.