I’ve finally picked the pattern for my winter coat and found the perfect fabric so on to making a toile. The pattern is Burda 114 11/2019. I’m not intending to make a lot of changes, just to miss off the bow and make my usual length alterations.
Here are a couple of front views. Excuse the terrible lighting and phone pictures. For this toile I have included the facings and pinned up all the hems so the edges are where they will be on the final version.
The sleeve and hem lengths are good. It doesn’t look super roomy here but there’s a lot of ease in the body. Even with the front opening pinned all the way down it’s easy to walk in. In the real thing there will be a two way zip so it can be partly opened at the bottom for even more space.
Now the back and the side. The shoulder seam is in the right place. The ease is much more apparent from the back. However I think it’s all going to be needed because the final coat will have a thick layer of wadding under the shell fabric. I often make a rounded back adjustment on outerwear which I find improves the arm mobility, but I didn’t need to on this one because the back is already roomy.
I think the front needs to be very slightly longer to make the hem level.
The pockets are in a good place. I haven’t included the pocket bags on the toile but I have doubts about whether they are deep enough. Oddly enough on this picture it looks like the back is too long. But I think it’s the way I’m contorting myself to get the photo combined with the angle of the mirror.
The collar is enormous. I like a dramatic collar but I’m going to adjust the shape of this one a little. The front edge is drafted dead straight but looks a bit concave here so I shall correct for that on the pattern. If it doesn’t work I can always re sew along the original stitching line. I also notice the collar seems wider than in the technical drawing but I’m going to leave that alone because it might change with the wadding in, and can always be adjusted later by sewing a deeper seam.
So all in all pretty good. I’m hoping to cut the real fabric out this weekend.
Catherine Daze's Blog 
Drama!
We like a bit of drama around here 🙂
It already looks great as toile. The fit is pretty good.
It’s looking good and very you. Thank you for sharing all this, it is so very interesting and helpful.
Your coat will be spectacular!!!
You might consider the rounded back alteration, if you normally include one. In the pictures, it looks like the back neck edge is pulling away from your body, almost pointing straight at the ceiling. In her fitting YouTube videos, Peggy Sagers of Silhouette Patterns indicates that is a sign you need more length in the upper back. If that is true on this garment then once you get the weight of the wadding added it pull back a lot and be uncomfortable. Such a lovely dramatic cast design! Already looking lovely on you. Thank you fro sharing your process. I am starting my first coat, just a light weight one for a little rain protection. Your posts are so inspiring…
I think your toile is looking good. I can’t wait to see your finished coat
Thanks!
Love the collar! And the fit from the front is very flattering. The back? Hard to tell without the quilting.
Yes, but at least I know there’s plenty of space 🙂
Can’t wait to see it finished! The fits looks just great. I love that dramatic collar ❤️
I was worried that a toile wouldn’t tell you that much as the final fabric and all the wadding is going to make it look so different, but I can see that it has been worthwhile to check the position of the shoulder seams and to check for the required roomy-ness (not really a work, but you know what I mean).
Yes, I think the wadding is going to make quite a difference. But luckily Burda’s draft fits me quite well so I’m hopeful it’ll all work out.
I love the collar! Too big? Not for me!