Pattern tweaks

I need to have pockets in clothes these days. I know a lot of people say they ruin the line and it’s just as easy to carry a handbag. But for me if a garment doesn’t have pockets it languishes in the wardrobe, unworn. And it often happens that I fall in love with a pattern that doesn’t have them and need to add them. This one is a case in point. It’s Burda 110B 08/2017. I found it when messing around with fantasy wardrobe plans earlier this year, and it hasn’t let go of me.

Burda 110b 08/2017 model photo

Sometimes it’s obvious where you can put pockets but this one’s a little difficult. Although the skirt is a basic pencil skirt shape with side seams, there are both pleats and gathering just where a side seam pocket would normally go.

The gathering means it also needs to be made in a fairly lightweight fabric. But as it’s close fitting that has the potential for showing off things I’d rather hide. So I’m going to add an underlining layer to give some extra coverage. My plan is to cut another set of skirt pieces but with the extra fabric for the pleats and the gathering removed. I’ll pleat and gather the outer pieces and then baste the inner pieces to the back of them.

But what about the pockets? Rather than trying to put them into that lumpy side seam I’m going to try to hide them inside the horizontal pleats. I’ve cut the outer front piece across the fold line of the middle pleat and added seam allowance, plus an extension on the top piece to form the back pocket bag. I would have added an extension to the bottom piece as well but I don’t have quite enough length of fabric to fit such a big pattern piece into the layout. Instead I’ve made a separate pattern piece for the front pocket bag that I should be able to fit elsewhere on my layout.

I’ve a feeling this one’s either going to be a triumph or a complete disaster. Wish me luck.

18 thoughts on “Pattern tweaks”

  1. lovely dress — have you thought of using the cuff – it would fit a credit card? not a phone though or keys

  2. I add pockets too. I’ve discovered it’s not just figuring out a place to put them and the bulk of contents, but also the weight of the contents needs to be supported. I often add hidden pockets in waistline seam because it can support the weight, even if it’s only big enough for a key, credit card, and few notes.
    In this dress the gathers should hide contents and lining take care of weight.

  3. I love me some pocketses but generally forget about them til I’m finished…but then I mainly just stuff my hands and maybe a tissue in them!
    That dress looks perfect for you, looking forward to your progress reports

      1. I’m not as glued to my phone as you youngsters…at home it lives by the bed [alarm clock] and at work it lives in my bag, in a drawer, It’s only when I’m out and about I bother top have it on me, and then it’s usually slung in a bag with my shopping! Same with keys, at work, round my neck on a lanyard, everywhere else, in my bag, not needed. When offspring hand you toys, thank them gravely then tuck said toy down the back of their trousers. Way simpler!

    1. I should definitely explore the sleeve idea, thanks! I think the front bodice on this one is going to be too floppy, at least in the fabric I’ve chosen. A ponte might work better though.

  7. Good luck! I see so many couture dresses with pockets nowadays. There must be a way to sew them without ruining the line.

  8. Oooo…I’m looking forward to seeing the end result. Best of luck! I do think it could work, but it sounds a bit like bra sewing. You may not know until the garment is finished.

    LOL…the tool belt idea could take off, just sayin’.

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