Style Arc Toni in tencel twill

Here’s probably my last summer project of the year. It’s Style Arc’s Toni dress, yet again, this time made up in tencel twill. This is my fourth version of this particular pattern. Previous versions were in mystery grey synthetic, black lightweight viscose, and white sateen. The grey and black versions were worn until they were rags, and the white one is starting to look a little sad, so I’d been thinking of making another.

And then we went on holiday to Rye and I took the opportunity to visit Merchant and Mills’ shop. I was only intending to have a browse. The fabric prices are fair but they’re definitely not cheap: they specialise in high quality fabrics, mainly natural fibres, in beautifully tasteful muted colours. But they had a dark grey tencel twill reduced because of some minor damage close to the selvedge, and it’s perfect for a Toni, so it had to be. It’s exactly the sort of thing the pattern was designed for, although I also think it looks pretty good in a much less drapey fabric. Right now it’s still available here.

I’ve shortened the pattern a lot from the original. I also shaved a bit off the centre back seam at the top because do what I may the collar and facing never go in right without this adjustment. The original pattern seems correctly drafted – the seamlines match – so I don’t know what is happening when I sew it. I also made the pockets deeper this time. They’re hidden away in those side drapes.

The armscye on this pattern is a bit odd; there’s no shaping at all. The side seam just stops at a certain point and you turn the seam allowance under on the opening and stitch it down which works because of the lack of curves. I find the drafted arm opening is a bit large and tends to reveal bra band. This time I sewed the side seam up about 3cm higher than the pattern marking which has improved things. It hasn’t affected my arm mobility either.

I only have one very slight complaint and that’s that the fabric picks up little marks very easily. It’s beautifully soft to wear though, and the marks don’t show in photos so I’m living with it.

I expect this won’t be the last of Toni but I’ll be waiting until next year to make another now. Thanks as always to my husband for the photographs.

13 thoughts on “Style Arc Toni in tencel twill

  1. lovely as ever! I may have to revisit this one at some point, although I did have two disappointing versions. They work really well as coats/long waistcoats for layering with that front seam finished.
    I do have other patterns with the interesting side lumps, I should probably stick at those!

    1. Thanks! I also have a Vogue 1410 which has better behaved drapes that I wear a lot, but I like that the Toni has more shoulder coverage. Some sort of mashup of the two ought to be possible 🙂

  2. One of my favorite patterns as I love the neckline; just so elegant. This pattern definitely has your name on it! Perfect!

  3. It is as if the pattern was made with you in mind. Looks so comfortable and relaxed. I doubt it would be a fit for me, much too short. Looking forward to seeing what is next.

    1. Thanks! It’s an odd length, this pattern. Mine is shortened considerably from the original design because the hem width is so narrow it’s hard to walk in. Must have been designed for Amazons!

  4. You look stunning in this design. Love everything – the colour and fabric and changes you have made. Thanks for all the tips about your tweaks. I have the pattern and keep meaning to get to it. You have inspired me. I’ll be thinking about what I have in my stash that will be suitable.

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