This was a quick but not an easy project. The pattern is Burda 114A 11/2011, a fairly simple wrap over knit top. The pattern photo shows it made up in a very loose and drapey sweater knit; you can see it’s slightly transparent.
I got some fairly similar stuff from Croft Mill’s sale recently. It was an end of roll so there’s no more available. It’s a loosely knitted polyester sweater knit in various shades of grey, black, and white. It came with a warning that it was tricky to sew and they weren’t kidding! You can stretch it a long way and it doesn’t snap back. I spent a long while trying to get it arranged on grain and without tension before cutting, but one of my sleeves still ended up 10cm longer than the other, and the back hem edge was on a steep angle. This was particularly obvious because the fabric has a subtle striped effect. I took my shears and cut the extra fabric off freehand, following the stripes, to end up with two matching sleeves and a hem that is on grain. I think it’s worked surprisingly well considering how misshapen my first attempt was. I really should have cut the whole thing out single layer.
Most people who have made this recommended going down at least one size. I did size down but I also made my usual length additions and they weren’t needed. The sleeves are meant to be extra long anyway, but I think the body has come out much longer than on the model photo.
The neckline on the model photo is very low but most people who have made this have found it comes up much higher and more wearable, me included. I can arrange it to be lower but it naturally settles as you see it in the photos.
I constructed this mostly with a straight stitch on the sewing machine using a ball point needle and slightly lowered needle tension. I tried the overlocker on a few seams but it didn’t like the loosely knit fabric at all. The fabric caught around the loopers at one point and required some vicious hacking with scissors to free it. The overlocker seems to have survived the experience but I lost a bit of width from the top around the bust area (I regretted using only 1cm seam allowances) and after that I didn’t risk overlocking again. I left the remaining seam allowances raw and sewed the hems with a wide zigzag positioned to go over the raw edge of the hem allowance. Hopefully it will hold up. Knits generally don’t ravel but this one might be an exception.
I really like the finished top. I’ve seen a few versions of this in more stable knits and those looked pretty good too, so I might give it another go at some point. In a more stable knit this would be a great first knit project because there’s no neckband to deal with. I think I need a break after this particular version though; my next project is going to be made from nice well behaved denim.
Thanks to my husband for taking the photos.
7 thoughts on “Pathological fabric and Burda 114A 11/2011”
Congrats on winning the battle with a difficult fabric to end up with a lovely looking sweater.
cool jumper- sounds like the fabric behaved rather like the evil [but gorgeous] green/grey/black stripe I used for the Style Arc ‘Nina’. There’s some odd stuff going on inside THAT one, believe me! I rarely attempt knits on the sewing machine, it was something that always defeated me in the past, and why I ignored knits until I got my overlocker. I occasionally do a bit of topstitching round a neckband, or a hem, or a sharp corner, that’s it. My stripey knit did need ‘locking though, it frayed like a bugger!
I’ve used this pattern too! I wasn’t sure where exactly the wrap should lie and like you went for the above the bust cross-over. The Burda photo seems to show the cross-over in a lower position. The fabric looks great, but some of these loose floppy knits can be a right pain. I used a tissue knit once that twisted and stretched in weird ways, that t-shirt still looks a weird shape when I pull it out the wash, more like a triangle! Well done for persevering with the fabric – it looks fabulous.
In spite of the Pathological fabric, your top looks good! I like the higher wrap.
I feel like the last two knit projects I made also had somewhat pathological fabrics – so I totally feel you on wanting a nice stable fabric to sew with next. Despite the struggles, your top looks fantastic and super comfy! I’m sure you will get a lot of wear from it, it looks like a great top to have in the wardrobe.
Tell no-one (else!) about the troubles making this and all you will get us compliments. It looks really good!
laughing…I think I’ve had your fabric’s cousin at least once. Your top is great, love the silhouette on you.
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