Vogue 1573: unintentional mom jeans

Vogue 1573 front view

So I wanted to make a pair of black jeans to fill a gaping hole in my wardrobe. I wanted a skinny jeans style with a bit of seam interest, and the trousers from Vogue 1573 looked absolutely ideal. Here’s the line art. Look at all those pieces! It’s one of the designer patterns, a Guy Laroche style from Autumn 2015.

V1573 line art

I don’t have the patience or the time for toiles, so I just dived straight in. I was slightly hampered from the start by the fact that I’d ordered the smaller of the two size ranges but my pattern envelope arrived containing the larger one. I’m pear shaped, and based on the finished garment measurements I calculated my hips needed a 12. Luckily that is where the ranges overlap so I had that one in the envelope. I traced the 12 and graded the waist down. I used 14 for the lower leg because I have footballer calves, and added 7cm to the length, 3cm of which I took out again when hemming.

And it appears I have inadvertently made mom jeans: high waist, tapered leg, baggy thighs and seat. These pictures were taken after several washes, so they’re better than they were straight off the machine, but there’s still plenty of excess fabric.

Vogue 1573 front view closeup

I always have extra folds of fabric under the bum on trousers but this pair is really baggy there. This picture is not the worst one we took. I haven’t made woven trousers from a Vogue pattern before and I suspect part of the problem is the standard Vogue crotch curve doesn’t suit me. Burda’s is better on me and I understand that they draft for a different body shape.

Vogue 1573 back view

Anyway this all sounds a bit negative, but I have in fact been wearing these a lot. They aren’t the most flattering jeans I’ve ever made but they are practical and comfortable, and I don’t have another black pair right now. Incidentally the fabric is Black Marl stretch denim from Croft Mill. The pocket lining is black cotton poplin I had scraps of left over from something else, the interfacing is Vilene G405, and I used up two of those 30m spools of Gutermann topstitching thread.

Vogue 1573 side view closeup

Apart from the sizing I actually really liked the pattern. The method used for the pockets was new to me and gives a very clean, bulk free finish on the inside. I’ll be using that one again elsewhere. The belt loops are also a bit unusual. They are sewn into the waistband seams at both top and bottom rather than sewn into the top and bar tacked at the bottom. Then the top waistband edge is top stitched right over the belt loops. My machine found that very heavy going, and I can’t say I think it’s an improvement over the usual method, but it was interesting to give it a go. I didn’t like the instruction to hand stitch the waistband facing down though. I stitched in the ditch from the right side, although the sewn in belt loops got in the way a bit so I have little gaps in the facing stitching.

I was puzzled by the waistband grainline. The waistband is cut in such a way that centre front ends up almost on the bias which isn’t conducive to making a nice neat front closure, and my buttonhole is a bit sad looking too.

Some reviewers said they found the fly construction instructions confusing. The method used is almost exactly the same as Burda’s, which has always come out well for me, but I ran into problems with the fly top stitching on these. I couldn’t fold the fly shield completely out of the way as instructed because of how it was attached, so I had to do the curved end part of the top stitching through all the thicknesses. Then the fly shield edge fell exactly along the line I wanted to stitch along, so my stitching line kept falling off it leading to skipped stitches and tension problems. I managed, but it took about four tries. I think if the fly shield had been longer then what I did would have worked, but I’m not sure I got the construction quite as Vogue intended in the first place.

I might have another go at these, but grafting the style lines onto a jeans pattern that fits me better in the first place. So they are a partial success, and I expect I’ll wear them to shreds anyway because who doesn’t need a pair of comfortable jeans?

Vogue 1573 action shot

20 thoughts on “Vogue 1573: unintentional mom jeans

  1. I like ’em! Comfortable and practical is the very essence of mum jeans. And they’re becoming fashionable again. I think. [In my head, at least]. My shape pretty much precludes what we see as ‘well fitting’ jeans these days, I don’t see the point in fussing to get a perfect fit around belly and crotch when I always wear tops that cover them anyway…stretchy and comfy all the way. I hear you about belt loops, and they used to irk me…but again, why wear belt when you’re my shape? lol
    I do like Guy Laroche style lines, so interesting. I have a fab couple of suit patterns [one for me, one for the missus] but wonder if they’ll ever really be used now…

    1. I think you’re right about the shape being back: TopShop are trying to sell them! I think I’ll be hanging onto my skinnies for a while yet though. I agree that perfect trouser fit is often not worth the bother. I’m just pleased to have something that’s long enough because RTW doesn’t do a lot of tall sizes.

      Guy Laroche are probably my fave out of the current Vogue designer lineup. Odd because it’s been done by several different people over the last few years. I think I know at least one of the suit patterns – big dramatic collar, long skirt with fishtail?

      1. nope- it’s a sassy little suit/dress thingy, and the trousery version has an amazing
        jacket with sort of double sleeves. Both of course photographed all black so you can’t see any details on the pattern covers! I do know the one you mean though and ALMOST bought it

  2. I like them. Actually I’m a bit bored with the hyper fitted jeans look, or in fact hyper fitted second skin anything. They look comfortable, skim rather than hug.

  3. If mom jeans means something that isn’t super skinny second skin, well, hurrah for mom jeans!

    I really like the fit of these, and the style lines are unusual and interesting. What’s not to love?

  4. Looks like this pattern could offer lots of opportunity for interesting top stitching. Might give it a try, but being 5’1” tall will call for lots of adjustments. Guess I need to make a muslin. They do look comfy.

  5. I think those jeans look great on you!

    Me, I like loose jeans for every day wear. So much more comfortable in the summer heat. I have a pair that I’m wearing to shreds and will have to replace them soon.

    I also have some more fitted black jeans that I wear with a nice top if i’m meeting friends at a restaurant, or something…

    🙂 Chris

  6. They don’t look like mom jeans to me. Of course, I’m learning that I prefer loose clothing (but with shape) in this heat. I do like the pants better on you with the shirt untucked though.

    1. Yeah it’s weird, I think the grey shirt looked better untucked and the black shirt tucked. I would normally wear both untucked through because they never stay put if I tuck them in.

  7. I like them. They have great style lines, and comfortable is a bonus. Enjoy wearing them – and any compliments you get.

  8. Looks good! I too have much better results with Burda pants than others, but it doesn’t matter if you are still loving them. They do have some cool features, and it’s always good to make something you will wear a lot.

  9. Wow! Hats off to you. Sounds like a massive project for the art of patience to me! I think you will get heaps of wear out of these despite your fit niggles. I literally gave up wearing jeans because I couldn’t find any to flatter. Maybe making some is the answer. One day. When I’m feeling patient! 😉

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