I need a lie down: Vogue 1548 finished

It’s finished. I sewed the last few buttons on today. The finished version of Vogue 1548 is both brilliant and weird, and I suspect it is one of the most complicated things I have ever made.

Modelled pictures will have to wait a bit but I do have flat and detail shots, and some construction notes.

Here’s the full length view. Those gathered bands at the cuffs and hem were surprisingly tricky. I did the cuffs the standard way: sewing two rows in each seam allowance with a long stitch length and low tension and then pulling up the threads. The end result wasn’t very even. For the hem band I tried zigzagging over a heavy thread (two rows again) and pulling that up. That was very slow and fiddly but slightly easier to control.

And here’s the back. The centre pleats don’t quite meet at the zip because I needed a little extra room there. But I’m pleased with how well the waist seam and the top of the zip are matched up.

Less pleased with the back neck facing which has an annoying mismatch where it’s sewn to the zip. I don’t do hand sewing if I can possibly avoid it, so I did the all-machine method for attaching the lining and facing to the zip and got a bit sloppy. It won’t show when the dress is being worn so I decided not to unpick it.

I bagged out the lining, again to avoid hand sewing.

The sleeve linings have little pleats at the cuff.

The really special feature of this dress is the plastron. It has a lot of precision top stitching and 12 precisely placed buttonholes. I didn’t try to use the original pattern markings to position any of that because I’d had to alter the pattern piece to add a lot of length and they all needed redrawing. I made up the basic plastron and then used a patchwork ruler and marked new guidelines directly onto the fabric with chalk. To stop the layers shifting under all the top stitching I put some fusible web inside the plastron before closing it up. That worked well although I suspect quilters may have better methods.

Here’s the dress without the plastron. The neckline is pretty but I doubt I’ll wear it like that because the buttons look a bit odd to my eye.

One last picture with a better view of the amazing sleeves. I can’t wait to wear it.

26 thoughts on “I need a lie down: Vogue 1548 finished

  1. This looks superb, I can’t wait to see how it works on. It’s obviously a very technically demanding pattern, and it looks like perfect execution, seriously, would anyone but you have noticed the minor niggle with the facing?

  2. Looks great and the plastron is an interesting piece…is it comfortable to wear?
    I’m with you on avoiding handsewing…and oddly I like handsewing! But it’s not always the best technique for the job.

    1. Thanks! It is surprisingly comfortable. The hem band is a little narrow – I wouldn’t want to have to run in it – but it’s certainly wearable for my desk job.

  3. oh my dear Lord, that looks fantastic. congratulations! so much work, and it sounds like it was such a headache, but it looks amazing.

    I may have missed this, but did you cover the buttons?

    1. Thanks! Yes, they are covered buttons. Quite fun to do although I wouldn’t want to do all 12 in one go. I did a couple at a time when I was getting fed up of sewing the dress.

  4. I’ve been checking your site every day to see this made up. It’s pretty fantastic! I can’t wait to see it on you.

  5. wow that is looking fantastic, and very interesting, can’t wait to see it on you.

  6. Mind blowing. Reminds me of why I used to love Vogue Patterns. You don’t find this level of design from any other source. It is beautiful. Can’t wait to see you wearing it. How did you mark this fabric for such perfect topstitching of the triangles?
    XX

  7. You’ve made a magnificent job of that. It looks good flat and I have no doubts it will look even better on the body. The details are fabulous 😃

  8. How exciting to see this pattern sewn into a real garment. So unique and fabulous. Can’t wait to see pictures of you wearing it.

  9. Wow what a dress! And what a project!
    Those sleeves and that plastrom are works of art! You’ve done a really amazing job and it must have been such a satisfying project. I love a big complicated sew that really makes you think!
    Looking forward to seeing it on

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