Vogue 9064 is a pattern that’s been lurking in my stash for so long it went out of print before I sewed it up. That’s not quite as bad as it sounds as this one seems to have had an unusually short shelf life. It was released in winter 2014. I’m not sure exactly when it went out of print but we’re now in spring 2017 and it’s definitely no longer available. I guess it didn’t sell well because I can’t find any reviews of it online. Which surprises me, because I loved it as soon as I saw it. Here’s my favourite view from the envelope art. The top is the piece I was drawn to, but the skirt is included as well. There’s also a pair of simple elastic-waist trousers.
I’ve been trying to sew from my stash lately so I didn’t have a lot of fabric choice for this project. The grey and black linen I used was left over from my Vogue 1390 dress. There wasn’t enough of either colour left to make the pattern up exactly like the envelope. I’ve made the sleeve bands much deeper and cut them from the contrast colour, and added a deep hem band to match. There’s no collar either.
It looks like a very simple kimono sleeve top at first glance but it’s a little unusual. The sleeves are kimono sleeves (cut in one with the bodice) at the front but regular sleeves at the back. You have to set in half a sleeve on the back bodice, which gives you a t-shaped back to go with the t-shaped front, and then sew front and back together along the overarms and underarms. I don’t understand why it’s designed like this because it seems to give the worst of both worlds in some respects; the baggy fit of a kimono sleeve with the aggravation of having to set in a sleeve. Having said that it’s very comfortable to wear, and there wasn’t a lot of ease in the back sleeve seam so it was more straightforward to set in than I expected. Maybe someone who knows about pattern cutting can explain the choice?
I’m slightly surprised the front contrast panel doesn’t go around to the back. I’m not sure if I like that or not. I wasn’t bothered enough to alter it though.
The linen frays like nothing on earth so I flat felled all the seams except the centre back. I’ve somehow avoided ever making flat fell seams in the past and was pleasantly surprised to find that it wasn’t difficult, even on the curved seams. I did the slightly easier version where you sew the fabric right sides together first so all you see on the outside is a top stitched seam. It also helps that linen presses well.
The centre back seam has a zip so I pressed that one open and overlocked the seam allowance edges. I could have bound the edges instead to get a really clean finish throughout, but didn’t think of it in time. The zip itself isn’t absolutely needed but it certainly makes life easier when getting dressed. I might skip it in a stretch fabric. It’s a centred zip because that’s all I had handy. Don’t look too hard at my topstitching.
I made my usual Vogue size, which is one smaller than the pattern envelope suggests. I checked the ease before picking the size and it fits fine but I really wouldn’t want it any smaller than this. Doesn’t help that I didn’t lower the bust darts so they’re not in quite the right place.
I’m pretty happy with the end result. I’d like to make it again in something warmer for winter: boiled wool maybe, or melton.
Construction notes
- Black and grey linen from Truro fabrics
- Size 90 universal needle and black thread
- Vilene F220 interfacing on the neck facing and along the zip seam
- Flat fell seams throughout except centre back
- Next time bind the centre back seam and lower the bust darts
Catherine Daze's Blog 
Oh what a chic ensemble! Great photos too… you look amazing! I love that you delved into stash. It’s what I need to do more of but I never seem to find the right fabric for the right job. You did so well here!!:-D
Thanks! In some ways it’s been really good to use my stash – nothing like limitations for making you more creative – but I do have a few pieces that I despair of finding anything to do with, mostly because of the colour. Memo to self: do not stash colours you don’t wear
Nice work with your fabrics! I love faux flat-felled seams – a comfortable inside finish and it sure manages raveling fabrics. A note – on center back seams, I serge the SA first, press the sewn seam open, and topstitch down the SA’s to finish. Works really well with a zipper and keeps the SA from flapping. Binding would be beautiful however! I’ll be interested to see if you change this pattern, along the lines you’ve mentioned. Love your hair!
Thanks! I’ll have to give that a try on the next one; I think there will be more of these.
See, this is why I love Vogue over the indies. Looks great! (It’s so funny, based on the design I would have expected it to be in a knit– it looks like a comfy sweatshirt!)
I’ve always wondered about this top, but I never bought it for fear it would emphasize my belly. But I really, really like yours! I’m so glad to see it on a real person. So I just now hopped on Etsy and found it in my size for less than ten dollars.
this top (and you) look fantastic. Love it
Thanks!
This is such a great choice of pattern for you! I really like your wider cuffs and hem bands, it makes the panels more of a statement which is great in that colour palette. It’s really interesting to read about the strange sleeve situation, there must be a reason behind it, how intriguing! I love unexpected details like that on a pattern
Thanks! Yes, the unusual sleeve is growing on me a bit. It’s certainly more interesting than a regular kimono sleeve. I’d love to know if there’s a pattern cutting reason behind it.
This works brilliantly in your colour choices. I have another Vogue pattern with the same arrangement of set in sleeve at the back and kimono at the front, and can’t throw any light on the reason. It does work however.
Thanks! It’s definitely growing on me just for the interest factor, so perhaps that’s all it is. I figured you’d know if there was a fitting reason if anyone did!
Love this style on you! The colors are great too. I think it would be brilliant in a boiled wool for winter.
Super cool as ever- I get a Star Trek vibe from it [could be my age, ignore me!]
I take that as a compliment 🙂
It is! [Just don’t make it up in red- dangerous]
Oh, I have this pattern and am so happy to see it made up–thanks for sharing! I’d thought to make it in a stable knit one day. Looks like a good one for using up precious scraps.
That’s a thought, I’ve got a gorgeous piece of silk somewhere that I could use for the centre panel in the next version
This looks good, and I initially thought it was a sweatshirt! How cool is that out of linen! Love your last photo. The aesthetic is so your style, and looks wonderful with those fabulous gold trousers.
Love it. Vogue really does have some gems in their pattern collection
What a great top! I love the panel and the cuffs. I also thought that it would be a jersey/sweatshirt pattern, but intereing that it is a woven. I love your hair, but I think I have said that before!
Thanks! I’m enjoying the blonde but it’s time consuming to have done…part of me wishes my hair would just go completely grey instead of streaky 🙂
You really know your style so well. Your top looks very cool, I would be worried from the pattern drawing that it would just highlight my middle, but that’s not the case with your top at all. I assumed it was a ponte knit, looks like you could make it out of lots of different fabrics.
Thanks very much for doing this review. I have this pattern but have not made it up. You have inspired me to look into my stash.