I usually blog about projects very soon after I’ve finished them; often before I’ve worn the garment in ‘real life’. These trousers are an exception I finished them a couple of weeks ago and have lost count of the number of wears they’ve had. They’re one of my current favourites. And yet, when I come to look at the photos, they just aren’t quite right.
The pattern is my tweaked version of Burda 103-07-2010, which I’ve made many times before. They are jeans style trousers with the side seams shifted a long way forward and a section seam down the back of the leg. I have lowered the rise about 5cm from the original pattern, and added a bit around the hips. The fit is all kinds of wrong and has been in every version I’ve made. Lots of excess fabric under the bum and the legs are too long.
I am forever cursed to make trousers that are too long because of years of not being able to find RTW with sleeves and legs long enough. I’m so afraid of cutting anything too short that I always end up erring on the other side.
The fabric is unusual: a blackish stretch denim with some dark gold metallic threads. Unfortunately the metallic threads are a bit irritating to the skin so I always have to wear leggings underneath these, but it was easier to sew with than many metallic fabrics I’ve tried. It washed beautifully and didn’t mind being pressed even on a high heat. The fabric was unusually narrow for denim and I needed every scrap of two metres to make these. I bought it on Goldhawk Road last year. The sparkle is fairly subtle in real life; these pictures were taken in glaring sunlight.
The fly front on these gave me no end of trouble. I’d shortened the rise on the original pattern, but I think I must have forgotten that when I consulted Burda’s instructions to find out what length zip to buy. The zip is far too long and that led to me ripping out the fly and restitching it some ridiculous number of times. I don’t notice it when I’m wearing it but you can probably see it’s out of proportion in the picture below.
So they were massively aggravating to sew, they don’t fit right, and if I’m honest they’re not exactly the most flattering pair of trousers I own. I don’t think the unusual side seam position is doing me any favours. But I suspect I’ll carry on wearing them a lot; they’re comfortable and practical. I think it might be time to move on from this pattern at last and try one of the many other Burda options for slim trousers next time though.
Catherine Daze's Blog 
Oh Catherine, I think you are being very critical of yourself. These jeans look absolutely fine from where I’m standing… Next time (if there is one) pinch out a couple of inches from the back thigh between crotch and knee and then add this to the leg length below the knee. You might want to check out Bootstrap/Lekela for custom fit garments too.
I too always cut mega long – just in case….. you are looking remarkably trim.
While I can see all the issues you are describing in the photos, I wouldn’t immediately pick them out without commentary either. If they are comfortable wear them, but I can understand why you’d want to either tweak these more or find something different in the next iteration. The great thing about Burda is that they have tons of patterns, so you’re sure to find something else if you jump patterns, but if not it seems like you’ve identified the problem spots, so it should be possible to tweak the pattern to fix them too. Either way, these pants look really cool and if you are wearing them lots then they were totally worth the effort.
I hear you on the length. It’s not unusual for me to have added so much length to a garment that I then have to shorten it by 4″/10cm at the hem. I would not think twice about any of the fitting issues you pointed out had you not pointed them out. I sometimes think we are a bit too obsessed with showing our sewn garments without a single wrinkle or crease on our blogs, and that isn’t really how most things wear in the real world.
that is really fantastic fabric and they look amazing.
I must admit until you pointed out the fitting flaws I thought they were fine! Certainly a better fit than you would get on ready to wear
I think they look fine too. I agree with Clio, clothes have to be worn. I made trousers with the weft being fine wire like steel wool. The first time I wore them I got abrasions on my legs and couldn’t work out what was wrong. i loved the fit and colour but I ended up donating them as I just could not wear them. It’s never cold enough for tights underneath here. I often wondered if I walked through an airport scanner with them on would it beep?
I’ll wear something to rags if it feels good… and I don’t look at myself in my clothes either! So my clothes – when I photo them for the blog – can be a surprise. These pants look nice on you, but if they don’t work, they don’t work. I let Levi and Lees make my jeans, they just do it better than I do 🙂
You need to learn Sandra Betzina’s technique for sewing a fly front zipper for any pattern. I hope you can see the video in this link. You sew the thing in entirely flat and it’s incredibly easy to adapt any pattern for this technique. You will get perfect results every time.
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3831/video-easy-to-sew-flat-fly-front-zipper
Thanks for the link! I’ve just watched it and I’m definitely going to try that method.
I also didn’t notice the flaws, maybe you’ve just gone off the pattern?
I agree with all of the other comments! The trousers look great even with all the flaws pointed out. Maybe you are growing out of that pattern which highlights the problems for you?
These look fantastic, I think we do tend to be a bit overcritical when analysing photos or we have got so used to seeing perfectly photoshopped wrinkle free clothing everywhere that we forget about real life! Obviously you’ve been wearing them and loving them which is the main thing. Maybe retake your photos on a less sunny day !!
The narrow width sounds selvage denim:
http://www.artofmanliness.com/2014/04/22/raw-selvedge-denim-introduction/
I never thought of that…I’ll have to check the edges on the scraps. Thanks for the link!
Enjoy wearing them and disregard your mental commentary about percieved ‘faults’. If they feel good forget it.
I agree with Ruths suggestion which may sort out the bit under the butt.