Should have known better: Burda 127-10-2014

Burda 127-10-2014 front view

Here’s a make that didn’t work out, Burda 127-10-2014. The annoying thing is that most of the problems were entirely predictable, had I thought about the pattern more carefully in advance. But I was carried away by the cute raglan seaming, the exposed zip, the pockets, and the roomy silhouette. Here’s the line art. Have a good look, maybe you’ll see what I missed.

Burda 127-10-2014 line art

It’s basically rectangular, and the bagginess only goes so far in accomodating my current shape, but that’s not the issue. The pockets are nice and big which is a point in its favour. I somehow managed to cut the sleeve bands horribly off-grain which is why they’re twisting, and they were a pain to insert because the polyester crepe I used does not tolerate even the smallest size mismatch. But none of that is the fault of the pattern.

Burda 127-10-2014 pockets

The problem is the shoulder line. Look what happens when I move my arms. The shoulder line creases and the whole dress moves up. The shoulder line is so dropped and curved that there’s no way you can lift your arms and hence the sleeves without lifting the rest of dress. And the shape of the shoulder is quite clear on the line art so this shouldn’t have been a surprise; I just didn’t spot it in advance.

Burda 127-10-2014 pulling

Some of the pulling is clearly being made worse by the distorting effect of my bump. Look at that drag line.

Burda 127-10-2014 pulling

Just for completeness, here’s the back complete with exposed zip. The back is so plain it really needs that zip detail. I’m slightly surprised Burda didn’t repeat the raglan seaming on the back to add a bit of interest.

Burda 127-10-2014 back view

I often have trouble getting the right zip forย  a project but for once for once I got lucky. I found this one on eBay. The tape colour is almost an exact match for the fabric and the puller is a bit different: a short chain with a ball on the end rather than the usual zip puller. The back of the dress is so plain it needs all the help it can get. I didn’t do the greatest job inserting the zip but it looks OK from a distance. The neck binding isn’t great either because the fabric I used was a bit too heavy for the pattern and so the binding pattern piece didn’t have enough turn-of-cloth allowance.

Burda 127-10-2014 zip

I am going to put this dress away until after the baby and see if it’s any more comfortable when the bump isn’t taking up all the extra space in it.

Burda 127-10-2014 side view

20 thoughts on “Should have known better: Burda 127-10-2014

  1. Some patterns work better than others, it always depends. On the other hand, if those raglan seams had zippers they would be perfect for breastfeeding.

  2. Those shoulder seams/ sleeves could work in a fabric with stretch. I really like this design but I’ve been worried about exactly the problem you’ve illustrated so beautifully. And I don’t mean your wonderful bump taking up too much room!

  3. Thank you for pointing out the shoulders in the drawing! That’s something I never would have thought about, but now know to look out for. That sleeve would take some serious reworking to get it to function properly. What an annoyance!

    I had my first baby last summer and made several roomy, boxy dresses out of knit jersey – because anything remotely constricting made me feel ill. I still wear a few of them now, but some are just too big without the bump. The good thing is there’s enough material in them to rework into something (or several somethings) else!

  4. i still think it’s a nice dress, and that you look lovely in it.. also, love this pattern and have sewn it so many times that i can’t really be critical :).. i’ve noticed that it works and fits the best when no bumps of any kinds are involved – it looks fine on me, who am flat chested, but kind of looked odd and dowdy on my busty friend that usually looks super hot in everything.. i think the dress looks best when it simply ‘hangs’ from the shoulders uninterrupted.. i’ve made it with and without the sleeve bands, it’s a bit more comfy without them (or when the bands are folded up), but i find it quite wearable anyways (just try not to lift my arms too high hehe)

  5. Your comment about the sleeve design is a revelation and I think why I hate Burda 7203, a big green sack dress I made recently. Move my arms and it shifts around.
    It looks nice but if it bothers you when you wear it, it feels like a failure.

  6. That’s the problem with making one’s own clothes. They’re pretty much one-offs with no R&D beforehand. But now you know and now we know and thanks for that. I think the dress looks great on you and maybe you’ll love it after the baby is here.
    I adore the magenta dress โ€“ colour and style. Looks especially good with copper hair. Definitely a winner.

    1. I think there’s something in what Mokosha says about it working better on a very straight up and down figure too. Odd that a style with so much ease doesn’t accommodate curves!

  7. Omigoodness, I’ve missed the news flash! You are well into a pregnancy – many congrats!!!! Yes, with my bust and belly, I avoid unfitted saque dresses. A more skimming silhouette is kinder to me. I’m so excited for you!

  8. Well done for posting ‘failed’ projects, we can all learn from them ๐Ÿ™‚ Maybe the dress won’t pull up, if post-baby you wear it with a belt, a bit puffy, the skirt part should remain level with raised arms (and baby giggling).

  9. Echoing Annina-g, thank you for also posting what doesn’t work. I’d downloaded this pattern but have yet to make it up. Reminds one of the oversized, dropped-shoulder cuts of the 1980’s, which also, ironically, limited arm movement. If you belted at the waist you would more or less pin your arms to your sides. ๐Ÿ˜‰

    Might bother less to wear if cut as a tunic and worn over skinny jeans/ leggings.

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