Burda 130-06-2010

Gold and silver: Burda 130-06-201

Burda 130-06-2010 side view

This is Burda 130-06-2010, the first real maternity pattern I’ve made. I have to say I cannot tell the difference between the fit on this and some of the blocky women’s dress styles you can find in any issue of Burda. I thought it might have extra width around the bump area, but when I traced the pattern it was essentially rectangular. The zip serves no purpose that I can see.

Burda 103-06-2010 line art

I picked the style because I like the notched collar, and it looked simple enough to sew up fast. I cannot say whether the instructions were any good because the pattern came from a German language copy of Burda 06/2010 I bought on eBay. When I bought it I thought I might be able to get some help with the construction from Google Translate but what came out was so confused it might as well have still been in German for all the good it did me. I found that comparing the instructions in an English language Burda with the German issue and looking up a few important nouns was much more helpful. The structure is exactly the same in English and German so you can tell what each paragraph is about from the order they come in. Based on that I was at least able to find out which pattern pieces had seam allowances included and  what to add to those that didn’t.

The intended method of construction for the collar remained something of a mystery. There seemed to be two possibilities: sew the shoulder seams, attach the lower collar facing to the lower neckline first and then construct the rest of the collar as you would a notched jacket collar; or make up the whole collar unit first including all the facings and then stitch the lot to the dress. There is no back neck facing and the neckline seam is finished with binding, so either would work.

In the end I went for the second option, using the instructions for the collar on my black Burda jumpsuit to help construct the collar. Then I sewed the shoulder seams, attached the collar to the neckline, and bound the collar seam. Finally I sewed the side seams, adding side seam pockets which are not in the original pattern, and hemmed the armsyces and bottom edge. It seems to have come out OK! The neckline seam isn’t totally smooth around that deep v neck but the collar covers the puckers. I should have used a smaller seam allowance around the collar instead of Burda’s standard 1.5cm and then maybe I could have got it in flat. Next time.

Burda 130-06-2010 front view

The fabric is a lovely golden coloured cotton poplin from Misan Textiles; a birthday present from my parents. The original dress was also made in poplin but the collar looks softer than mine. I used Vilene F220 to interface my collar, which is a lightweight fusible, but Burda’s version used G785 which is even lighter than F220 and also has some stretch.

Burda 130-06-2010 back view

This dress benefits from being worn with a loose belt to contain some of the volume above the bump. Partly that’s because the cotton has quite a bit of body; I wanted something crisp. I think you could also make this up in a drapier fabric and then you wouldn’t need a belt. Years ago I had a similarly shaped ready to wear dress – no darts at all – made from a navy artificial silk that never needed a belt, although it probably wasn’t quite as wide as this one as I remember it being a bit of a wriggle to get on as it didn’t have a zip. I wore that one until the seams started to give way.

I added in-seam pockets.

Burda 130-06-2010 side view

I’m happy with this and I love the colour. It’s just occurred to me that if I’d bothered to put in the zip I could convert it later on by adding some darts, but a belt is fine too. And now I have enough clothes that fit to get me through a working week again.

29 thoughts on “Gold and silver: Burda 130-06-201

  1. Omg you’re expecting! I didn’t comment on your last Burda make (the x dress) because I thought “this is not flattering, it makes her look pregnant” lol Now I think that one and this one are successes. Hope you feel as great as you look.

    1. Thanks! I think in a drapey fabric and with some fisheye darts (and not skipping the zip!) this would make a perfectly good regular dress. Maybe go a size down too; this is a 38 which is my usual Burda size and as duck bucket commented, the shoulders are wider than I’d expect.

  2. Looks great, the collar shape is really nice. In the line drawing the collar looks a little mean, but it’s a nice generous curve in RL.

  3. looks great and yes a sophisticated take on maternity that is perfect for work. i think shorter it would make a good tunic top as well with pants or leggings.

  4. You’ve done it again- made me rethink my dismissal of a pattern on sight. This collar is so much more interesting on you and it looks structured but comfortable. Nicely done.

  5. Lovely dress – face nicely framed with the beautiful collar. I also loved the X dress — what a wonderful wardrobe you have to enjoy while pregnant….and after!!!

  6. Well, firstly and most importantly, congratulations!! Your dress is lovely, I like the collar; it’s “classic” but still an unexpected choice for a plain Tshirt dress, so is visually quite an interesting feature. And you look absolutely gorgeous in this colour, you could wear it more often! Finally, I’m very happy for you and hope you continue well and comfortable for the remainder of your pregnancy (hugs) 🙂

  7. Well done!!! With the baby!!! And the dress and keeping up with sewing and blogging despite morning sickness. Already looking forward to the baby clothes you may be making in the future.

  8. maternity…maternity dress…WAAAAAH? MATERNITY???? HEY! Congratulations and fingers crossed for a smooth pregnancy. How did this get past me????? A little ‘spaceperson Cyberbaby!”

  9. It’s brilliant that you are able to sew and keep your unique sense of style in maternity wear. Although it sounds like you’ll be able to wear this one afterwards as well, winner!

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