Worth it in the end: Burda 106-04-2014

Burda 106-04-2014 side view

Burda is sometimes unfairly accused of churning out endless boring patterns based on rectangles. There are certainly plenty of boxy tops and dresses in the magazine (not that there’s anything wrong with that!) but also no shortage of more complex designs like this style, 106-04-2014. This is a wonderfully practical summer dress: it is very roomy, has pockets, and protects my shoulders and neck from the sun. I was very boring and made it up in practically the same colour and type of fabric as Burda’s sample: a greyish brown silk. Mine’s from the sale room at Misan Textiles.

Here’s the line art.

Burda 106-04-2014 line art
I was very glad this was the illustrated ‘sewing course’ pattern for the month with detailed instructions; the x-wrap detail isn’t technically very difficult to sew once you have worked out what’s going on, but the pictures were a great help in determining which edges to sew to which. Burda’s usual terse instructions probably wouldn’t have been enough.

I made a couple of very minor changes, which were to top-stitch the hem and to top-stitch down the back neck facing to stop it flipping up. I didn’t do a brilliant job on either but I can live with it.

Burda 106-04-2014 back view

I love that the dress has pockets although I did have a bit of trouble with them. The side seams of the front are cut slightly on the bias and they stretched out very slightly despite my applying strips of interfacing to the seam allowances. The pattern also has a zip in the left side seam. Successfully combining a zip with an inseam pocket, wriggly fabric, and a bias edge took a couple of tries and a bit of hand sewing to get a good insertion. And then after all the faff getting the zip in I found I can get in and out of the dress without it, even though the fabric has no stretch at all.

I swear that weird wrinkle below the pocket isn’t normally there. In fact this side of the dress is the one without the zip and hence has the better pocket insertion.

Burda 106-04-2014 side view
When this issue of Burda first came out I remember reading a review where someone (sorry, can’t remember who!) expressed the opinion that the hem on this dress was never going to hang well. It’s a bit odd. It looks fairly straight when I’m walking.

Burda 106-04-2014

But not so much when standing still. I considered interfacing the hem to try to reduce the wavy effect but after making samples I found I preferred the softer hem.

Anyway despite all the quibbling I really do like this dress. It’s a slightly unusual style but easy to wear. The silk feels very luxurious and was worth all the sewing problems. I have just cut out a second one, in a rather more experimental and even more temperamental fabric. Wish me luck.

Burda 106-04-2014

21 thoughts on “Worth it in the end: Burda 106-04-2014

  1. It’s nice, and looks perfect on you. Great for summer!

    I made the blouse version as a maternity top but then was less than enthusiastic about it. I really think you need a drapey fabric.I think this would look amazing in a fabric with stripes, there’s one project on the Burda website which looks beautiful!

    I had the website pattern, and the instructions were all right in the end. It took some reading and rereading of the relevant portions though.

  2. I’m with you in needing neck and shoulder coverage in a summer dress and this dress shape is fascinating, I love it! What on earth shape were the pattern pieces that made the cross-over at the front?!

    1. I’m going to post a pic in my next post as I’ve attempted an FBA on my second version. But for the moment imagine an ordinary v-neck front piece which has been slashed through diagonally, from a point on the neckline about halfway between the shoulder seam and the point of the v to the outside hem corner. Then spread the top of the pattern out to make a big gap in the neckline edge and add a long rectangle shape on top of the gap, which becomes the wrap and collar. Clear as mud I bet!

      1. Oh my goodness! I’ve got an old dress from Kew that I suspect is constructed something like this. I’ve kept it in the hopes that I might eventually get around to reverse engineering it…

  3. I love this (and I’ve been semi-stalking it in that issue of Burda, so I really appreciate the review!)

    Do you think it would work in something other than silk? Wondering if linen would work or if it would be too bulky.

    1. Thanks! I reckon it needs something fairly light and also slightly drapey, so I doubt most of the linen I have ever been able to get would work – although isn’t there something called hankerchief linen that’s very lightweight? One of those silky viscose/rayon type fabrics would be fine, or a lightweight crepe. I was wondering about a slippery lightweight jersey too although it would probably hang quite differently.

  4. I like this on you, it looks cool and comfortable but still stylish. Like the DF I’m not sure I could get away with the style on me, but if I get my hands on a back copy of the April Burda your version has tempted me to try.

  5. I made this not long after getting the magazine – I’ve a few in-process pictures on the blog. I didn’t finish it at the time – I wasn’t sure about it. But last week I took it out and plan to get it hemmed soon.

  6. I’ve been planning on making this dress for awhile, and I’m so glad that you shared yours. It’s beautiful. I’m looking forward to seeing your next one!

  7. Beautiful dress – I bet the tracing off was interesting – I’ve got use to it now and it gives me a good sense of the pattern whilst doing it but those larger pieces are the worst!

  8. I made this in a polka dot jersey, went down a size and omitted the pockets and zip. It’s one if my favourite comfy dresses and gets worn at work loads.

  9. I like what you’ve done with this dress. The front is the key interest point and using a solid colour shows it off so well. I’d love to try this in long sleeves because we’re in Winter here.
    Cheers

  10. love this dress on you! funny thing is that i’ve been thinking about sewing it, just a few days ago.. i’ve also seen a stripey jersey version on russian burda site, so i might sew mine in jersey, as i liked the softer drape.. looking forward to see your more experimental version of this 🙂

  11. WOW! That is so stunning on you! I don’t mind that hem one bit. I wouldn’t call it “ripply”, I’d call it “draped”. Another dramatic piece that you wear really well!

  12. Oh, I’m so pleased to see you’ve made this! I’ve got this magazine and have eyed off that pattern for a while so I’m glad to read your experiences. It looks very interesting, and I love it on you, you carry off this dramatic look so beautifully. Thanks for mentioning the zip; it is a bit of a bummer to insert a zip perfectly in a difficult location, just to find you don’t even need it… DOH!

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