Burda 109-10-2015

Burda 109-10-2015

Burda’s having a good streak lately and the October 2015 issue was a case in point. It normally takes me months to get around to sewing up patterns that catch my eye, but Burda 109-10-2015 was traced, cut and completed within a few weeks of the issue arriving. This is a loose-fitting top pattern designed for heavy-weight knitted fabrics. It has a big collar and a shaped hem. Unusually for a knit pattern the body is cut on the bias, so it’s great for showing off fabrics with a stripe. My fabric is striped silver and black but the pitch is so fine it doesn’t show up in the photos.

Burda 109-10-2015 line art

This is a very quick pattern to sew. As it’s for knits you wouldn’t even need to bother finishing the seams if you didn’t want to, although I did for this one because the overlocker happened to be threaded in black. The only difficult part is inserting the zip. Not only are you inserting an invisible zip on a heavy and stretchy fabric, it’s positioned in a curved seam. Don’t skip the interfacing around the zip. Burda recommends Vilene bias tape; I went for strips of Vilene F220 because that was what was to hand but it was probably a little on the heavy side. You could omit the zip entirely of course, but with it in it’s possible to wear the collar in different ways. Here it is zipped up and folded over.

Burda 109-10-2015 front view

On whole I prefer the collar unzipped. The back hangs a bit strangely when the collar is zipped up and folded over, and my fabric’s a bit too floppy to look good with the collar zipped and unfolded. It’s not just the way I’m standing in the picture either; all of the pictures we took of the back had strange wrinkles with the collar folded over.

Burda 109-10-2015 back view

Unzipping it allows the back to hang much more naturally.

Burda 109-10-2015 back view

I found the sleeves on this one came out strangely short. They’re definitely bracelet length on me, whereas on Burda’s model photos they come well over the hands. On my version they align nicely with the shaped hem which Burda’s don’t either. I am pretty sure I forgot to add any extra length or hem allowances when I traced the sleeve piece and so the shortness is my fault not the pattern’s. Next time I’d definitely make the sleeves longer.

Burda 109-10-2015 left side

This top is proving a firm favourite. I think it’s a pattern that will only work with exactly the right fabric, so I doubt I’ll be making it again soon, but I’m enjoyig the one I’ve got.

Notes:

  • 1.8(ish) metres of mystery silver and black knit fabric
  • Size 90 universal needle
  • 9″ invisible zip. 8″ would have been better.
  • Vilene F220 interfacing around the zip. No other interfacing used.
  • Added 2″ to body, forgot to add any length or hem allowance to sleeves

10 thoughts on “Burda 109-10-2015

  1. Nice top. I cancelled my copy of Burda after feeling it had gone off the boil but I have seen some nice things made from recent issues. I’m sure you will wear this top to death.

  2. This has everything I like- asymmetry, oversize collar, interesting seaming and shape. Pity my October issue hasn’t made it to me yet!
    On the other hand, the weather isn’t really right anymore for a top like this.

  3. Yes, this is so you, the space collar, the tilting hem, the utility zipper for letting alien pets take quick shelter during warp-speed transport.
    XX

  4. Love it! I have the pattern pinned to my project board. I wonder, could the strange wrinkles come from the fact that the collar goes straight up? Then when you roll the top down it isn’t wide enough and gathers the fabric under it.

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