Necessity is the mother of invention: Vogue 9112

Vogue 9112 3/4 view

Do you wash fabric as soon as you’ve bought it, or only when you’re about to use it? I’m firmly in the latter camp, which meant that my sewing plans were abruptly derailed when my washing machine broke down recently. However I did have the remains of a length of silver polycotton twill which I’d already washed and made three garments from. You’ve previously seen as trousers, a jacket, and a skirt. It’s from Truro Fabrics and at the time of writing is still available.

I’d bought Vogue 9112 in a recent pattern sale, intending to make it out of black cotton poplin at some point in the future. It’s a very asymmetric, trapeze-line design that looks as if it needs a crisp fabric. Here’s one of the envelope pictures.

Vogue 9112 envelope photo

Cutting this out was a big job. The design means that everything has to be cut single layer, and I was slightly short of fabric as I’d lengthened the pattern and I wanted to cut two of the collar and make it double layered. It took me a few goes to fit all the pieces in without messing up the grain. My fabric had a small discoloured patch which was impossible to cut around, but I managed to get it on the back and fairly close to a seamline. I can’t see it in any of the photos.

This pattern is very short out of the envelope and has no adjustment lines. It’s probably easiest to add length at the hem but I needed to add a lot and didn’t want to mess with the proportions so I slashed and spread in two places: just above the bust point and between the bust and waist. All the curved and slanted seams made that more difficult than it normally is and I messed up repositioning few of the notches. That made the dress a little harder to sew but I’m glad I added the length as the hem is mid-thigh at the shortest points even with the extra. (Actual measurements for anyone who’s making this: I added two inches and I’m 5’10”.)

Vogue 9112 back view

One thing I love about this dress is that it has roomy pockets. You can just about see them in the picture below. This is also a good shot of the gathered panels. As usual my gathers are a mess if you look at them closely – I just can’t get fabric to gather evenly no matter what I do. I don’t think it matters here though.

Vogue 9112 left side

I made the collar double-layer (cut two copies, make the collar pleats in both, sew them right sides together around the top edge and ends, turn out) and added sew-in interfacing to one collar piece to make absolutely sure it would stand up. Otherwise I sewed the dress up exactly as the pattern suggested: bias binding finish on the armholes and at the collar-neckline junction; top-stitching around the neckline; and narrow hem. The lack of closures mean it’s quite a quick sew despite all the curved seams.

Vogue 9112 right side

This is a very comfortable dress to wear – unsurprising given how easy-fitting it is. It’s an interesting style and I think the pockets will mean it gets a lot of use. I’m definitely tempted to go back and make it again in the black cotton poplin I’d originally intended. Or maybe black taffeta? I think it would be good in any fabric with a little sheen to show off the seamlines and gathers.


50 thoughts on “Necessity is the mother of invention: Vogue 9112

  1. Very nice- as ever. It fits your space age vibe beautifully! I love these slightly odd, asymmetric designs but have to be wary as I’m short and wide: I think I’d get more of an R2D2 thing going on if I wore this one. Keep ’em coming…

  2. This looks really good on you. Like Demented Fairy, I’d worry about how it would look on me. Good to know about the length though. Your gathers look fine in the shots btw. In my experience the only way to be absolutely sure to get even gathers is to mark the short edges every inch with corresponding marks on the long edge. Sometimes going by eye works better though, just getting the gathers to look right.

  3. your new dress looks amazing! i remember that pattern, loved it from the first moment i saw it, and seeing it all sewed up makes me sure i’ll have to make one myself.. also it looks very very cool in silver color!

    1. Thanks! Yes it’s nice when it works out that you use every scrap. I need to learn to buy less fabric because I normally have half a metre left over with every project.

  4. Classy and cool as always! Such an interesting pattern. Well done on patiently lengthening properly. I think we’ve all learned that taking short cuts makes for long term dissatisfaction! I love that top shot of you. Looks like you’re on film set! x

    1. Thanks! As always all credit to my husband for the pics. What you can’t see in these is a pair of small children going ‘what are you doing? from the swings just out of shot 🙂

  5. I love your makes. I am a fan of the Tilton style but was a little surprised you chose a Tilton pattern. Do you like her other patterns too?

    1. Thanks! This is the first one I’ve made up although I own a few. I love the details and unusual silhouettes in the Tilton patterns. The 8934 egg-shaped coat and 9140 jacket and trousers are others I’d like to try…if only I could justify sewing more coats.

  6. I love this pattern and have made it twice now…and will make again I am sure. I would love to send you my photos…if you were to share your email with me.

  7. It looks so cool! I love how you always pick the exact opposite patterns I would ever think to try and make them look so amazing. I agree that it would look good in a poplin or taffeta – hopefully your washing machine gets fixed soon so you can try it in other fabrics.

  8. ugh! gathers! I usually try to avoid them, but it’s not always possible. I just despise doing them because I can never get them just right either…

    1. I guess some people just have the knack and the rest of us don’t. I’m definitely going to give Jay’s tip about making lots of markings a try next time.

  9. You had an uninvited audience for your photo shoot and yet you still remain über composed, how?! I get flustered when one of the cats looks at me quizzically.
    Fabulous make and fabulous photos, as always!

    1. Thanks! I know what you mean about spectators – another good reason for taking photos just before sunset quite apart from the light, people tend to have gone home by then.

  10. I’ve been mulling over whether to get this pattern and your version finally convinced me (yes). Thanks!

    (Also, as always, I love your fabric choices.)

  11. You look fabulous! With all of the asymmetry and angles, I bet it *was* a pain in the butt to lengthen!

  12. It looks really cool on you, especially in that fabric! I really love it and love that you’ll get use of out it because of the big pockets! I envy you being tall and slim, so you can carry it off. I’d feel swamped by it. Popping in as part of my 300 blog comments in 30 days challenge.

  13. Gorgeous. I thought of you when I saw this come out-it’s their first in years that’s really grabbed me. Really like the fabric you’ve used as well-it lets all the seam work shine through. I’ll definitely be grabbing this one at their next sale. BTW I thought of you when I saw these as well. Perhaps a bit too simple for what it is in terms of the sewing challenge-you seem to go all out with really architectural styles, but I thought they’d look awesome on you styled the way they are in the first photo. BTW the secret to gathers is starting and ending at the same point with 2-3 lines of low tension basting machine straight stitch (depending on fabric) the first 0.5cm away from the edge of the pattern piece and the next ones 0.5cm away from that and so on and then grabbing the spool thread to drag the fabric across. Or- use a ruffler foot-they do micro pleats too.. ^^
    I know The Art of Manipulating Fabric book has a couple of sentences on calculating the finished ‘gathered’ length based on pleat size and distance. Off the top of my head, I think you add the top and bottom pleat depth and multiply by pleat number..but I can look it up if you like.

    1. Thanks! And it’s so nice to hear from you; I’ve missed your blog. I love those trousers; I nearly bought them when they came out and now I’m wondering why on earth I didn’t.

  14. Gosh, I didn’t even recognize the pattern! I love it longer and with the tee underneath. completely different vibe. Also – your use of a solid really lets the lines and pockets shine. Nice!

  15. Congrats, you look great in the dress, and styled it beautifully for the winter! I made this dress as a tunic; after seeing your outfit and some other reviews of it, I think this design is ageless, timeless and suits everyone. I say that because I’m much older, shorter, wider, darker and made the tunic in a summery fabric. And I love it enough to make it again – maybe in a wool fabric.

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