I don’t often make a pattern twice, despite my best intentions; and fabric that lasts more than a few months in my stash rarely gets made up. So this make is doubly unusual in that it’s a repeat of a pattern I made earlier in the year and fabric from deep, deep stash. So deep that I actually gave it away to my mother at one point, but she gave it back! It’s a very heavy cotton twill in a greeny brown colour. It’s definitely the sort of fabric that sews better with a denim needle.
The funny thing about this fabric is that the colour is impossible to match. I couldn’t find a remotely matching thread in the entire Gutermann range. I ended up sewing it with dark brown thread, overlocking in beige, and top stitching in a lighter brown. If you can’t buy anything that matches you might as well use what you’ve already got. The zip is green and the button is grey. But they look all right together.
The pattern is a mixture of Burda 115-12-2009 and 116-12-2009. The line art below is 116. The two patterns have the same basic pattern pieces but 116 has a lot more detail, including top-stitching, belt loops, thigh pockets, and flaps on the inseam pockets. I skipped the thigh pockets and the flaps, not wanting all the extra bulk.
I kept all the top-stitching. It’s not too clear in the photos but there are three rows down the back leg seam. I failed completely to get the spacing even, but both legs are wonky in the same way so it looks intentional.
After my previous attempt at these, which came out a bit tight, I added quite a bit to the pattern at the side seams. But I failed to take into account that the previous fabric had stretch and this one very definitely doesn’t, so they are still very slightly smaller than I intended. The pockets are gaping a bit even after letting the side seams out. They’re also a bit tight over the front of the thigh. I’m very glad I didn’t add the thigh pockets.
I think I’m done with this pattern now. The fit is good enough to be wearable, but there are a whole bunch of niggles that I can’t be bothered to go back and make a third version to sort out. It was an enjoyable sew and I’ve got two perfectly wearable pairs of trousers out of it but now it’s definitely time for something new. You’ll be seeing the fabric again in the near future though.
Catherine Daze's Blog 
Hi Catherine.
I haven’t commented for ages but am still lurking!
As always, you look so fabulously stylish. I think everything suits you, and these trousers are no exception. I like the laid back look.
So funny that you gave the fabric to your mum and it found its way back to you! You we’re meant to have it:)
Thanks Alice! Nice to hear from you; I was just thinking yesterday I hadn’t seen a blog post from you in a while. Hope all’s ok with you.
Hmm, it’s signed me in in a weird fashion! In case you can’t tell, it’s Alice from Virtual Princess and the Pea!
Wow these trousers must have taken ages! I love them.
thanks! I did get a bit tired of all the top-stitching…
Love those! So envious that you can make trousers.
Thanks! I’ve actually been pleasantly surprised to find that basic trousers aren’t as hard as I thought; give me a fly front over setting in sleeves any day of the week! Getting a perfect fit on them is something else though…
There is definitely something heroic and stylish about these trousers!
Thanks! I was aiming for vaguely stylish combat trousers and I think it kind of worked š
Love these! They look perfect with the black tee and sneakers. Very stylish with too much fuss.
Thanks! They’re definitely on the more practical side although after a few wears I’m regretting not making the pockets bigger.
I really like these trousers – great job! Pockets should *always* be bigger š
So true – I have never made anything where I thought the pockets were too big – and thankyou!
Great looking trousers and I like you hair a bit lighter too!
Thanks, I’m really liking the blonde so far.
Love the look of these, Catherine. All those seams make for an interesting trouser design, and they look like they fit very comfortably. Like the blonde, too. You look very Swintonish, imho.
thanks!
I agree, very Swintonish – particularly with the new hair colour – that last photo could be a candid from a persistent paparazzi ^_^
Thanks! I will admit to taking pictures of Tilda Swinton with me to the hairdresser on occasion, I love her hair š
i love everything about her – she’s got such a distinct style, as do you! ^_^
Swintoinish. That’s a perfect description! I like the seaming and details on these. Is that what made them a fun sew? I love topstiching on these sorts of fabrics and styles. I must get out of my current rut of pretty dresses!
thanks š I liked sewing the curved seams; they weren’t so curved as to be difficult, but definitely more interesting than straight lines.
I really love these!! They are cool and casual but with a pleasing fit, and I love the curved back yoke, for a bit of interest š Definitely a good call keeping those bulky front pockets off! Burda patterns have great bones but sometimes the embellishments are head scratchers ^_^
Heh yes, some of those ruffly things they produce make me boggle. But they’re rarely boring!
What fabulous style lines on those trousers. I am glad I’m not the only person who doesn’t dig deep into stash. I think I probably have both the magazine with that pattern and fabric that would work. As yours look so good I should try some of my own.
Thanks! I do think Burda’s trouser patterns are some of the best going. I’ve got my eye on one of their jeans styles next.
Wonderful! I love casual pants with lots of details – these are great, and you look great in them.
They look amazing! And the detailing is beautiful!