Burda 116-12-2009 or maybe 115-12-2009

Burda 116-12-2009 front

I don’t often make a pattern twice, despite my best intentions; and fabric that lasts more than a few months in my stash rarely gets made up. So this make is doubly unusual in that it’s a repeat of a pattern I made earlier in the year and fabric from deep, deep stash. So deep that I actually gave it away to my mother at one point, but she gave it back! It’s a very heavy cotton twill in a greeny brown colour. It’s definitely the sort of fabric that sews better with a denim needle.

The funny thing about this fabric is that the colour is impossible to match. I couldn’t find a remotely matching thread in the entire Gutermann range. I ended up sewing it with dark brown thread, overlocking in beige, and top stitching in a lighter brown. If you can’t buy anything that matches you might as well use what you’ve already got. The zip is green and the button is grey. But they look all right together.

The pattern is a mixture of Burda 115-12-2009 and 116-12-2009. The line art below is 116. The two patterns have the same basic pattern pieces but 116 has a lot more detail, including top-stitching, belt loops, thigh pockets, and flaps on the inseam pockets. I skipped the thigh pockets and the flaps, not wanting all the extra bulk.

Burda 116-12-2009 tech drawing

I kept all the top-stitching. It’s not too clear in the photos but there are three rows down the back leg seam. I failed completely to get the spacing even, but both legs are wonky in the same way so it looks intentional.

Burda 116-12-2009 back

After my previous attempt at these, which came out a bit tight, I added quite a bit to the pattern at the side seams. But I failed to take into account that the previous fabric had stretch and this one very definitely doesn’t, so they are still very slightly smaller than I intended. The pockets are gaping a bit even after letting the side seams out. They’re also a bit tight over the front of the thigh. I’m very glad I didn’t add the thigh pockets.

Burda 116-12-2009 side

I think I’m done with this pattern now. The fit is good enough to be wearable, but there are a whole bunch of niggles that I can’t be bothered to go back and make a third version to sort out. It was an enjoyable sew and I’ve got two perfectly wearable pairs of trousers out of it but now it’s definitely time for something new. You’ll be seeing the fabric again in the near future though.

Burda 116-12-2009 front

28 thoughts on “Burda 116-12-2009 or maybe 115-12-2009

  1. Hi Catherine.

    I haven’t commented for ages but am still lurking!

    As always, you look so fabulously stylish. I think everything suits you, and these trousers are no exception. I like the laid back look.

    So funny that you gave the fabric to your mum and it found its way back to you! You we’re meant to have it:)

    1. Thanks! I’ve actually been pleasantly surprised to find that basic trousers aren’t as hard as I thought; give me a fly front over setting in sleeves any day of the week! Getting a perfect fit on them is something else though…

  2. Love the look of these, Catherine. All those seams make for an interesting trouser design, and they look like they fit very comfortably. Like the blonde, too. You look very Swintonish, imho.

  3. Swintoinish. That’s a perfect description! I like the seaming and details on these. Is that what made them a fun sew? I love topstiching on these sorts of fabrics and styles. I must get out of my current rut of pretty dresses!

  4. I really love these!! They are cool and casual but with a pleasing fit, and I love the curved back yoke, for a bit of interest πŸ™‚ Definitely a good call keeping those bulky front pockets off! Burda patterns have great bones but sometimes the embellishments are head scratchers ^_^

  5. What fabulous style lines on those trousers. I am glad I’m not the only person who doesn’t dig deep into stash. I think I probably have both the magazine with that pattern and fabric that would work. As yours look so good I should try some of my own.

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