This is Vogue 1410, a Lynn Mizono pattern described by McCalls themselves as Art-Teacher Chic. I normally aim more for futuristic than artistic, but the adjustable length and drawstring detail in this one really appealed to me so I bought it in the last pattern sale.
Here’s the original for comparison. The only pictures I’ve been able to find of it online are the Vogue envelope art – anyone seen it elsewhere?
I didn’t want to look too much like I knit my own yoghurt (rampant hypocrisy from someone who makes their own clothes I know), so I made this up in black and am wearing it with a pair of wet-look leggings from Topshop which hopefully don’t look too ridiculous.
The suggested fabrics list on the pattern envelope covers quite a range: Stretch Poplin, Seersucker, Silk Dupioni, Lt.Wt. Wool Crepe. That seems to run the gamut from very stiff (dupioni) to very drapey indeed (crepe). I wanted the skirt to have an exaggerated shape so I went for a cotton poplin from Tissu Fabrics. It has 4% lycra which I thought might help with the inevitable creasing you get with cotton but it didn’t. All these pictures were taken after wearing the dress all day so creases abound.
The neckline on this dress is really wide. I don’t normally have to adjust that for Vogue patterns, but I wish I had brought it in a little on this one. You can see it gapping in the side view below. I notice that in one of the envelope pictures the shoulder of the dress is falling down the model’s arm, so I presume it’s meant to be like that. The neckline and armscyes are finished with a narrow hem. Another time I would probably change this to binding because I always find binding has the effect of drawing an edge in, whereas narrow hems tend to stretch it out even more.
Having said that I’m pretty pleased with the way the narrow hems came out this time. I’ve never had a lot of success with those in the past. I used the method where you sew a line of stitching close to the edge, crease and press along that line, and then turn the edge up once more over that, press, and stitch. The pattern suggested something slightly different but I find this one works best for me.
The dress length is adjustable. There are buttonholes in the seam allowances at the end of the side seams, and three pairs of buttons sewn into the side seams on the inside of the dress so you can loop the hem up to different heights. Above I’m wearing the dress with the hem buttoned to the middle pair of buttons. The shortest length is too short on me, and the second longest one isn’t particularly flattering so no pictures of those. But here it is unbuttoned completely. I doubt I’ll wear it like this much, but it makes an interesting shape.
The back shaping is unusual. You sew a pair of very square pleats on the outside of the dress front and back. The front ones get pulled in by the drawstring, but the back ones stick out like fins. A few people who have made this have stitched the back pleats down to the dress, which looks nice, but I’ve left mine sticking out. I interfaced both the front and back pleats to make them good and sharp.
I added side seam pockets. They ended up a bit low because I didn’t want to interfere with the button placement; they’re where that big shadow is in the picture below. The dress is french seamed throughout so I had to find out how to do french seamed pockets. This tutorial from Deborah Moebes was very helpful.
This is a seriously quick sew. Even with the french seams and adding pockets I managed to make this in a day.
So, the final question: is it art teacher or urban warrior? Or a bit of both?
Catherine Daze's Blog 
I love this dress so much! It’s the one pattern from the new Vogue collection that I totally have to have! Unfortunately, Vogue patterns are so terribly expensive over here.
I think that it looks great on you. It’s interesting enough not to be boring, but it isn’t too “out there” for my taste. (But then I guess my taste is rather “out there”, so take this with a grain of salt.)
Love this on you, definitely urban warrior!
I love this, not even a whiff of knitted yoghurt off it, and it looks killer with those leggings – total urban warrior vibes!
More architectural than artistic… but I like it.
I thought this would look good on you when I saw the pattern – I was right, it does look very nice, and it feels like it’s very much your style!
Looks great on you. And perfect with the leggings.
Being in New York where many/most art instructors live in black, I would say that it could be ‘art teacher’ — but not in the hippy-dippy sense of that phrase. Great dress!
I think it looks pretty futuristic and architectural rather than ‘arty’. I think it really suits you – in both lengths.It is just the sort of thing that my husband’s aunt wears – she is an english teacher.
That dress is so much fun, and it looks great on you! I think I’ll pass on it for me, as it may make me look like a dirigible.
OMG! This looks so amazing on you. I ‘specially love the short version. Very edgy.
Very nice! Curiously out of time, as well – the black and the hard edges definitely say futuristic, but in the picture where you have it down to the longest length it looks almost Roman. You’ve definitely got the height to carry the long version off, even if you don’t intend to wear it that way.
I love it, but then I am an art teacher.
Gush, I loove this! And in answer to your question… Both and neither – you boldly defy any stereotype! *calms down somewhat and clears throat* I really like what you’ve made.
Striking! Beautiful on you.
This dress is soooo you and sooooo great! Personally I like the longer version on you but the shorter look is fine too. Love your interpretation of this.
Definitely urban warrior
Yes! I wouldn’t have picked that out in a million years but the short version is very wearable with the leggings – just a little edgy. But it is the long version I find fascinating. I think if it were maybe three inches shorter and you wore something more contrasty on your lower leg – skin or coloured tights maybe, and interesting shoes, or coloured boots – it would make the structural qualities of this dress stand out.
I find it quite funny that Art Teacher is becoming a look in its own right. If you go to galleries you see a lot of women, of a certain age, with grey or brightly coloured hair, lipstick, structural garments, hand knits, bold hand hewn or ethnic jewellery, Italian spectacles, loud but sensible footwear and red lipstick. Sometimes they sketch. Mainly they talk knowledgeably to their friend. You don’t come near it, my dear!
Both! I love how this pattern translates into real life – and never would have guessed that it can change lengths, very cool.
I think it looks really cool and different, more modern than “art teacher” because of the black I think. If it was in some crazy color it could be art teachery. I saw another version of this dress in a sortof natural tan fabric that look really good too (http://thanksimadethem.blogspot.com/2014/09/weird-wonderful-or-wth-vogue-1410.html). I think the bubbly hem might be too much for me though… not sure
I have seen a number of versions of this but I think your version might be the best! Urban warrior, definitely. Very cool look on you. Different shape for you but still fits in with the rest of your wardrobe and esthetic.
Yes! Yes! Yes! I love this on you! This dress was made for someone like you! Having said that, several of my sewing friends (who don’t blog) have made this, and I have liked it on them as well. I do agree that the neckline is too big for most. I hope you enjoy wearing it!
I really like how this came out–I never would have picked poplin for this, but it looks like just the right amount of stiffness and drape. Very, very cool and perfect on you (as a short, plump person, I’ll have to admire from afar!) I am loving the “art teacher” thing, as it gives me a label for my own weird aesthetic. 😉
I vote urban warrior. Looks very cool. Love the changing hem lengths – the short version looks especially awesome.
Fabulous, urban warrior definitely. Or if we want to tie it to a job, Art Gallery owner, but no art teacher I ever had wore a dress like this.
I Love this pattern – when it is eventually released down under, it’s on my to-sew-list – and your version is a perfect classic – Love it!!! 😉
Awesome! Urban warrior. I love the long version. Structural, modern and yet timeless.
definitely urban warrior :o) love this on you, long and short
This is on my “to sew” list too! I love seeing yours because it confirms that I also thought it had urban cool potential too!
On you, this is definitely Urban Warrior. I love it! You look strong, visionary, able to tackle any challenge. You have the perfect figure for this style. I like it long as well as buttoned up. A really great make!
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I love this dress on you. Its on my list, in that ‘wonder if it’ll work on myshape’ kind of way. The shorter look wins out by a narrow margin imo.