Utility clothing: Burda 130-09-2011

Burda 130-09-2011 front closeup

So I made a jumpsuit. This is Burda 130-09-2011, which in the magazine looked like this:

Burda 130-09-2011 magazine photo

Mine is considerably less glamorous. I suppose I could have styled it with heels, but that wasn’t really practical for taking photos by the lake. And it does feel more like a garment that should be paired with a headscarf, or possibly goggles and a biplane. I’ll spare you the pictures of me trying and failing to do the classic Rosie the Riveter pose though.

This is made from a very silky cupro twill from Maculloch and Wallis. It looks like sandwashed silk. At the time of writing it’s available here in a few different colours. It feels beautiful, but it’s an odd fabric to sew with. It marks if you so much as look at it. I started out being very careful and pressing it only on the wrong side, and rapidly gave up on that because the iron marked it no matter what I did. But the funny thing is that all the marks vanished after a day or two. I’d just about resigned myself to them and now I can’t see them at all.

I used a blue tip size 70 needle to sew it, and even changed the overlocker needles to size 70 to match. I also used a lot of lightweight interfacing. The pattern has you interface the waistband and the seam allowances around the side zip, but I also interfaced the self facings and the pocket edges. That helped with getting nice sharp edges and I think it made the very wide top stitching around the facings easier to do.

Burda 130-09-2011 front full length

This is a regular-sized pattern. It runs fairly true to size. I made my normal length adjustments but that was all. By the way, when cutting this one out watch out for the hem allowances! Burda magazine patterns normally have neither seam nor hem allowances included. This one has the hem allowances included but no seam allowances. It sounds insane, but makes a certain amount of sense given that you’re supposed to make turn ups of a particular size at the wrists and ankles. I didn’t bother and just rolled them up. Once I’ve figured out how long I want the legs and arms to be I may sew them in place, but they seem to behave OK as they are.

The back bodice pleat is a nice design feature, but is entirely non-functional as it’s stitched shut along the whole length. I could do with a little extra room in the back so I might unpick that.

Burda 130-09-2011 back view

The sleeves are interesting. The shoulder is very extended and has a small pleat at the top which gives it an unusual shape. There isn’t a lot of sleeve cap but you do still have to set them in.

Burda 130-09-2011 side view

This was definitely a pattern where I needed to follow the instructions carefully. There were a couple of steps where they seemed to make very little sense, but if you do exactly what Burda says it does all work out in the end. The construction of the pleats and front facings is particularly pleasing because you end up with a very clean finish inside and the facings all firmly top stitched in place.

For a garment that claims to have a relaxed fit, it’s not an entirely fuss-free wear. I find myself adjusting the bodice quite a bit. I haven’t actually worn this out of the house yet other than for these photos. But it’s going to the pub tonight and I might try it at work next week. At some point I will definitely report back on the wearability of all these Burda patterns.

Burda 130-09-2011 side view closeup

9 thoughts on “Utility clothing: Burda 130-09-2011

  1. I love the idea of a jumpsuit, and recently made a similar one for myself using Simplicity 2187. I used an olive-colored, somewhat crisp cotton poplin, but I think that because you used a softer drapey fabric, the casual vibe is elevated a bit. So I bet you could rock this heels, but it’s also pretty cool that you can wear it to the pub… That’s versatility! I love your hairstyle as well. As always, you are very chic and I am inspired!

  2. I really like these! I’ve looked at cupro before and would love to try it, but that one time I could only find it in a weird green shade. It seems like the perfect pairing with this pattern though. But that bodice would drive me crazy, how does it stay on your bust?

  3. I really love this on you – I always admire how well you know and wear your unique style, and this is another win 🙂 Love the fabric colour and drape – I think it’s fabulous 🙂

  4. If this isn’t comfy, the pattern needs a bit of ‘wiggle’ room. But you need to be happy wearing it.
    This does look good on you so your jumpsuit vision is worth pursuing. It really is.

  5. Ooh burda have gone a bit moody with their photoshoots! Bravo on surviving their weird instructions. You’ve got a cracking jumpsuit here

  6. This is very cool! I think you look rather glamorous. It’s certainly an interesting pattern, I love the bodice especially.

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