Ridiculous patterns: planning Vogue 1335

Vogue 1335 envelope art

Anyone remember this Guy Laroche jacket, V1335 from the autumn 2012 Vogue patterns? The considered opinion of the blogosphere at the time was that it is ridiculous, but I confess I’ve always rather liked the style. It’s had a place on my sewing shortlist ever since it came out. I got some bargain wool melton in winter white last month, so the time has finally come to make it up. It may work out well or I may end up looking like a big white football.

Here’s the line drawing. I think there’s a mistake in it. In the photo the front closure is clearly asymmetrical but in the line drawing it looks almost centered. The pattern pieces look much more like the version in the photo.

Vogue 1335 line art

I was curious enough about this one to go and look up the original. You can see a photo at http://nowfashion.com/guy-laroche-ready-to-wear-fall-winter-2011-paris-302?photo=12856. It’s very different: made up in brilliant scarlet, with much less ease, and a double-breasted button closure. It is heresy to say I prefer Vogue’s version? Although I do wonder a bit about the ease. Here are the finished garment measurements:

 

6 8 10 12 14
biceps 17¼” 17⅝” 18″ 18½” 19″
bust 55½” 56½”” 57½” 59″ 61″
waist 42½” 43½”” 44½” 46″ 48″
lower edge width 40½” 41½”” 42½” 43¼” 45¾”
length 26″ 26¼”” 26½” 26¾” 27″

I’m not sure how meaningful the bust measurement is. The armscyes are so dropped that they fall well below the bustline; in fact they aren’t far above the natural waist. However the waist measurement is unambiguous. That’s got nearly 20″ of ease in it. The lower edge looks as if it falls at hip level and is two inches smaller than the waist, giving a much more reasonable 8″ of ease or thereabouts. It’s an interesting silhouette, that’s for certain. I considered going down a few sizes, but even the smallest size would still have bags of room in it. And really the point of this style is the oversized shape, so I’ve cut out the pattern in my usual Vogue size and just added length.

On the subjectr of adding length, it’s one of those annoying ‘no provision provided for above waist adjustment’ designs. I think that’s because the very dropped armsyce gets in the way of drawing the usual adjustment lines. I simply added the length I needed just below the armscye. I don’t think anyone is going to notice if the bust point isn’t in the right place on this one.

The pattern calls for interfacing on the facings and neck bands. I’m planning to add quite a bit more: the fronts, backs, and the top of the sleeves. I don’t want the jacket to collapse into drapey folds when worn!

Watch this space. Hopefully the Michelin Man will be appearing here soon.

24 thoughts on “Ridiculous patterns: planning Vogue 1335

  1. There’s a black on in the Ready To Wear collection that is a closer match to this jacked than the red one. I think that’s the original design. I’m looking forward to seeing this made up – you’re really good at wearing unconventional stuff like this, they usually look very good on you.

    1. RTW Fall 2011 shows variations in winter white, lipstick (scarlet), fur, and a two-toned black (if you are up for a challenge) as well as the most closely patterned variation in black. Good luck with yours.

  2. I’ve got this pattern in my collection too; I was drawn to it from the very first! so I’m looking forward to seeing your version. NO doubt it will be fabulous 🙂

  3. This one is in my pattern stash, too, even though I think it would be wrong for my figure. I just love that it has a point of view – am I the only one that thinks it’s Star Wars inspired (either Hoth or Storm Trooper – I can’t decide)?

  4. This post made me chuckle in several different spots. I’ve been reading your blog for a while and I am just going to guess that you have gotten a lot of your aesthetic cues from science fiction? Maybe I’m projecting.

  5. I always love that you make the sorts of patterns I wouldn’t wear (because they are not a good look for my body shape), but have interesting details and look great on you. Pretty sure I thought this jacket was crazy when it came out (mostly because of how low the sleeves sit), but I can appreciate a lot of the details on it. I think you can totally pull it off an look fabulous. Very excited to see the results of this one!

  6. I think it’s a really stylish jacket that looks right up your street. I know (like everyone else) that if anyone is going to look good in this, you will! And instead of just bunging it together straight off the pattern (like i would) you will take your time, making any mods you deem necessary, and it will be beautiful.

    Re the sizing my really helpful comment is…ignore the measurements!

  7. Michelin Man? What? With your incredible legs emerging from the coat?!
    I don’t think so!
    I like the style and I think it will look great on you.

  8. I’m so excited you are going to make this! I purchased this pattern yonks ago but could never quite bring myself so make it and then gave it away in my big stash cull before I moved. I am still drawn to it though.

  9. What are you using for fasteners? Are those thick chunks of leather on the original? With rivets? Oh, I’ll be watching this! I love your choices!

  10. Now that’s an interesting pattern. The coat volume and ease wouldn’t bother me so much and you’ve definitely got the height to pull it all off . Really looking forward to seeing your version.

  11. When I see anything Guy Laroche I instantly think of you 🙂 So that said, if anyone can do this justice, you can. Im not a girl for muslin-ing (even tho Im in the throes of muslin-ing Anna) but I think it might be the way to go here, esp to check out ease. Cant wait to see yours.

  12. Thanks so much for blogging about this jacket. It’s in my collection of patterns and I plan on sewing it for next fall/winter season. looking forward to hearing your progress when you begin making it.

  13. I think there line drawing shows the arm pieces differently too, if I’m seeing it correctly. I like odd looking jackets. It’s kinda Star Trek.
    Hopefully you get to making this.

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