Eureka moment

Sorry I’ve been so slow about replying to comments lately…I’ve been having some time off work but that just seems to make me busier! Thanks for all the lovely comments and tips. I have quite a few things I want to try out to make cutting out fabric on the floor easier now – it certainly sounds like getting a big piece of cardboard or lino is the way forward.

But on to the eureka (or possibly ‘doh’ moment). Vogue 8633 is one of my favourite patterns. It’s a Easy Options pattern, which means there are all sorts of variations, but my favourite is the one below. And you should definitely check out AlisonC’s stunning border print version.

I have never been able to get the fit quite right on the bodice of this pattern. On my first muslin I got huge diagonal creases from the shoulder to the end of the neckline slit, and despite much faffing I never really solved the problem, as you can see below on both of my versions. My fit books say that this is caused by square shoulders, but it’s not a problem I have ever had on any other pattern. Letting out the end of the shoulder seams helped but didn’t cure it.

Vogue 8633 green version

I’m about to make it again in a fantastic black stretch twill, and I really want to solve the fit problem this time. I got the pattern out of the envelope to have a look at it…and was astonished to find I hadn’t done a full bust adjustment for the first two versions. I can get away without one in some styles, but not a very fitted bodice like this. No wonder the first two versions pull where they do! So I’ve done that and am off to make another muslin now. Fingers crossed.

11 thoughts on “Eureka moment

  1. Hmm, not sure how you might resolve the problem. The second version looks like an excess of fabric in the upper bust area. This might be solved by a slight tuck in your pattern piece. Good luck!

  2. looking forward to the third muslin. I admire your dedication. Normalyy, if I am having a hard time with a pattern, I get discouraged and move on to another project.

    1. It was described as silk dupion, but it’s basically silver lurex threads woven with black silk threads. Frays like nothing on earth but I love it!

  3. I reckon the FBA will sort it out! From the first photo of the brown fabric muslin you seem to have a small amount of gap-age at the armholes, along with needing ½”-1″ of extra ease at the point level with the bottom of the neckline-slit (and doing an FBA will add width to the bodice at the front – so it will go someways to sorting out the extra ease needed at centre-front). So, I reckon if you pinch out and pin the gap-age to form 2 narrow-darts and try on the muslin again that should help loads. You could then transfer the shape/size of the narrow-darts to the pattern paper. Next you could then rotate the darts to the bottom of the bodice. Working on 1-side of the bodice only, you can then split the size of 1 of the narrow darts and transfer it equally between the 2-vertical darts that run vertically from waist-to-bust. (Disclaimer: I’ve only ever done one FBA myself, but I think the above is worth a shot 🙂 ).

  4. I dig both of these!

    I wonder if you have the problem I have: the area on my shoulder, just below the neck, is extra-muscle-y — like a swimmer’s. I wonder if making that adjustment would help? I’m not full-busted, but I’ve cured the front gaping armhole by taking a dart in that area until the gap was closed, and then moving that dart to the back shoulder seam.

    And maybe you are shorter from the bust line to the shoulder area, which may account for the extra fabric there.

    But I’m no fitting expert, so you might want to look away at this point.

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