Different sizes front and back

Vogue 8667 muslin side view

Vogue 8667 lining back view
This is the bodice lining of Vogue 8667 basted together. I made a muslin of this pattern last week but was had problems with the fit of the back.

This is my original muslin with the gapping at the back armhole and excess fabric folds on the back neckline.

Vogue 8667 muslin 1 side view

The main difference between the muslin and the lining fabric version is that I cut the lining fabric back out a size smaller than the front on the neckline, armscye, and princess seam lines. I used my usual size for the side seam lines. This has made a big improvement to the fit around the shoulders. I’ve heard of cutting out different sizes for your top and bottom halves and blending them, but never cutting different sizes for the front and the back.

So now I’m going to make the lining up properly before starting on the rest. Normally I do the fashion fabric first and by the time I get to the lining I am a bit bored, so I’m hoping that doing it this way round will make the process more interesting. And it enables me to put off tackling the rather intimidating 100% wool fashion fabric a bit longer. Incidentally, I measured it after my attempts at preshrinking and it hasn’t changed size at all, so I’m wondering exactly what will happen when I clean the dress. But that’s getting ahead of myself. I have to make the dress first!

2 thoughts on “Different sizes front and back”

  1. So…those seams in the top pic are not princess seams? They are actually the side seams, but sort of skewed round to the back? Or am I seeing it wrong? Or am I seeing it right, but the seams end up down the sides when it’s being worn? Whichever it is, it’s a good idea. Even if the seams do end up further back, I think it will be an interesting effect. But will your side seams on the skirt part still line up? Or doesn’t the skirt bit have side seams? Or am I talking rubbish?

    Good idea to do the lining first. I get bored, too, so I may adopt that idea.

  2. Sorry, I really should pay more attention before I make a comment! Now I see everything I said is totally irrelevant. Oh dear, they are princess seams, and you have it all completely under control.

    Silly me!

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