I finally finished my pleated dress. It’s been a real slog. I washed the fabric on May 6th so it’s taken a month, and it wasn’t even a new pattern – I made it up once before in wool. Admittedly I’ve been ill and also been on holiday since I started, but it’s still gone surprisingly slowly.
Here’s the back view of the new version:
I do like the fit on this pattern. I adjusted it slightly from the last time I made it up. The previous version looks good while standing up but the bodice tends to ride up as soon as I sit down because it’s a little tight on the chest. I did a tiny addition to the FBA I’d previously done on the pattern and the new one doesn’t have this problem.
I’m pleased with the zip. I ought to be as it took three goes to get in. Normally I have no problems with lining up invisible zips, but I could not get the waist seam to match on this one no matter what I did. It’s still not quite matched but it’s not bad enough to be noticeable.
What I have managed to get right for once is the finish at the top of the zip. I did this slightly differently from previous attempts and it seems to have helped.
I sewed the lining and body together at the neck and arms with the side and back seams open and turned them through the shoulders in the usual way. I trimmed a tiny amount – maybe 3mm – off the top of the zip tape and inserted the zip with the new top of the tape even with the neck seam. Then I turned it partly inside out and machined the lining to the zip tape using a regular zipper foot, keeping close to the teeth. That produced a nice neat finish at the top.
When I sewed on the hook and eye I sewed over the ‘bar’ of the hook and up the sides of the eye to hold them close in to the fabric. This stopped it from showing as much as it usually does on my creations. I normally get a gap at the top of the zip.
I always thought you were only supposed to sew round the ‘loops’ on a hook and eye because the illustrations in pattern instructions look like that. However I’ve checked my sewing books and apparently sewing over the bar is the correct way. Good to know it’s not my lack of hand sewing skills that was causing the gaps.
Next up is another Burda using the very bold floral jersey I bought a couple of weeks ago, but I have to trace it first. Hoping to get that started this week. That should be a much faster project which will make a nice change.