Vogue hits it out of the park

16Jul14

I said I’d blog about fasteners for the white jacket next, but Vogue have released such a great autumn pattern collection that I want to talk about that instead!

I always start with the designer patterns, because that’s what Vogue is all about. And this time there are not one but two Ralph Rucci patterns. V1404 is a sweet dress (perhaps too sweet for me, but very Rucci) and V1419 an awesome unlined coat. I’d make it in a fairly light fabric and wear it as a winter dress. I was curious about the original styling and looked these up on Ralph Rucci’s collections on style.com The coat is look 1 from the 2013 pre-fall collection and the dress is actually from spring 2013. I wonder if that one was originally intended for the previous Vogue release, where we didn’t get a Rucci at all?

Vogue 1419 pattern photo

There are three patterns with wonderful seaming from Donna Karan and DKNY: V1407, V1408 and V1409. I’m not so keen on Vogue’s fabric choices for these (to be fair to Vogue, V1409 at least is simply imitating the original look), but they would look fabulous made up in contrasting colours of the scuba knit that’s everywhere at the moment. The original V1408 is made up in different shades of blue – at least I think so, it’s hidden under a jacket in the fashion show. I couldn’t find the original V1407 at all.

Vogue Donna Karan seam detail designs

The fourth Donna Karan design, V1417 is a dramatic but very wearable asymmetric top and trousers combo. I’m not totally sold on the use of knit fabric for the trousers though. You’d need something with a good deal of lycra to avoid bagging.

Vogue 1417 pattern photo

And it doesn’t end there. Look at this wonderful dress from Mizono, V1410. It has an elastic drawstring allowing the length to be adjusted. Perfect for cycling. This is the sort of interesting detail that is the reason I use so many Vogue patterns.

Vogue 1410 envelope pictures

And talking of interesting details, check out V9035, the Marci Tilton pattern. The pockets are something you won’t see anywhere else.

Vogue 9035 envelope pocket detail

I could go on much longer, but the last one I want to highlight is V1405. At first it looks like a simple batwing knit dress. But read the description: draped midriff with stays and (p)urchased elastic, slides and rings for shoulder straps on bodice lining. There’s some internal structure there that would make it an interesting sew.

So that’s the designer section. What about the rest?

Easy Options has a blouse with cuff and placket variations and a princess seam dress with sleeve, collar, and skirt varations this time around. While I seem to have seen similar things to both before, they’re both nice styles and both rated Easy. I’d certainly have gone for the dress if I didn’t already have a few patterns like it.

Very Easy Vogue has some gems. There are stylish tops, jackets, and dresses. Some have subtle details that raise them above the ordinary, such as the unusual slightly set back shoulder seams on V9028, the side seams on V9026, and the curved shoulder yokes on V9019. Although I have to say my favourites are the simple but effective V9038 cape and the batwing dress V9021.

Vogue 9021 envelope art

The regular Vogue patterns seem a little too grown up for me this time around, although they continue a lot of the themes seen in the other sections. There’s an asymmetric dress V9024. V9031 is a skirt with seam detail reminiscent of the Donna Karan designs, but being a skirt rather than a dress it’s probably more wearable. And there are two very traditional patterns for little girls, V9042 and V9043 and an interesting man’s jacket in V9041.

The vintage patterns are conspicuous by their absence in this release which surprises me as 40s and 50s designs still seem to be everywhere in blogland. I’m not keen on wearing styles from those eras myself but there are plenty of people who are! I hope Vogue aren’t discontinuing this range for good. I’d love it if they re-released some of their sixties and seventies styles.

So in summary, Best Vogue Release Ever. And now I just have to wait until they come out in the UK!



19 Responses to “Vogue hits it out of the park”

  1. 1 Stef P

    Great review, thanks! The Vogue designer patterns don’t do much for my lifestyle but there are some great design ideas to feast my eyes on.

    As for the knit trousers I was looking through La Mia Boutique April 2013 and there’s a lot of formal-ish (ie not for exercise) trousers in knits.

    As for Very Easy Vogue, I love them and I have a secret dream of collecting all of them one day. Even the 70s and 80s one are mostly lovely.

  2. Don’t worry, Vogue is still doing the vintage patterns. They just borrowed one of my collected favorites for the 2015 summer pattern release!

  3. You do a wonderful review. I am almost tempted to let go off my very tight hold on BurdaStyle magazines for some of these! And I will be in the US for work in August…

  4. I feel in love with this collection, too. I missed the inner details of the Tracy Reese dress, however. Thanks for a great review!

    • 5 jne4sl

      I also missed that except noticing the zip in the line drawing not going all the way up. Sounds like the lining is really a slip.

      • 6 jne4sl

        And I couldn’t find any info on the original of this one for more detail, except a tiny image of a sold out dress somewhere.

  5. I always think of you when I see the Rucci’s because they are so “you”. I love the Rucci coat too. With the right fabric it would look sensational. Hope to see you make this soon. In the meantime, I’ll admire the white coat :)

  6. 8 Clio

    Best Vogue release in recent memory! I LOVE the RR coat and am thoroughly intrigued by the Mizono adjustable dress. Interestingly, I learned from someone who works for Vogue that I met at a Pattern Review event that when it comes to the designer patterns, it is often the designers that retain control of the fabric and styling of the garments, and DK/DKNY was mentioned as an example where Vogue has much less control. (Although, I agree – I like the patterns, not the fabrics).

  7. So glad you like this collection! Yes, it’s true that if it is a designer pattern, the fabric shown IS the actual designer fabric. FYI.

  8. Thanks for your review! I love the two Ralph Rucci patterns, too, and I’m really intrigued by the Mizono (but not sure if I can pull it off).

  9. I love the DKNY patterns and the sleeves on the Guy Laroche shirt (v1416 although the bow is too much for me)

    Do you out know of a good source for Scuba Knit?

    • I loved the Guy Laroche as well, but I’d never wear that now.

      Tissu Fabric have some great scuba knits at the moment. I just bought the platinum grey one and it’s beautiful.

  10. 13 jne4sl

    Thanks for your review, except that my list of patterns to check out has nowgotten longer. I also think of you with the Rucci releases and the jacket is amazing. I made a heavy sweater similar to 9028 last winter and I got a lot of wear from it and your right 9026 is likely a good seperate, too. I also like the Comey dress 1406 although I would have much rather had seprates from that collection.

  11. I quite like V1409 and the Mizono pattern. All the Donna Karan ones do seem to be made specifically for using up remnant fabrics (which is great!), but I don’t much like wearing dress knits so sadly not for me.

    That being said, I really don’t like the colors in the sample garment for V1409, I think they could have done so much better with that.

  12. This was a great post, especially for the links to the original catwalk appearance/styling. I can’t say I’ve found Vogue, my sole source of patterns for thirty years, worth the wait and cost since I moved to Europe and discovered Burda, but a posting like this does bring me up to date on what is considered a higher level of fashion these days.

    Meanwhile, brilliant work on the white jacket! You set the bar really high with that one!

  13. 16 Becki-chitwood

    I really wondered what they were thinking with those fabrics for 1409, thanks for providing the link. There are some really promising promising designs here, its interesting to hear your take on them.

  14. I always look forward to the new Vogue designer patterns, too, especially the Ralph Rucci patterns with their interesting details. Agreed that this is an especially good collection. Thanks for your excellent review, and in particular for the links to the originals. (longtime reader of your blog, first-time commenter)

  15. upon reflection, I love this collection, but, it’s the patterns I collect and never make because I think they only suit my fantasy life where i am a jet setting master spy and magazine editor. I want this wardrobe, I just don’t know how it would play in my little hamlet of flip flops and tank tops!

  16. These are great fun. I’m intrigued by V1417 – a top with a built-in cape? Why not?

    Other than possibly that one and the V1411 seamed trousers, I’d never *wear* any of these, but they’re architecturally gorgeous, and it’s good to see really complex and innovative construction out there.



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